Jeff Perrin

Apr 112014

Every time a new car or updated model comes out I spend a bunch of time picking apart the car, comparing it to the old version and or just showing off all the cool stuff. There is no exception to this for the 2015 WRX’s and STI’s, you just need to be patient. Instead of starting out by doing tthis “2015 WRX/STI Exposed”, we spent a lot of time determining what current parts we make will fit the new cars. After that was done, I couldn’t help but start coming up with new parts to make for them!

We already have about 10 new products that we will be making for the 2015 WRX and STI, which are unique to these cars. What are those parts? When will they be available? You will just have to wait and see! Over the next few weeks you will see some new posts that go over both cars in detail, as well as the new parts we have come up with. Keep checking back over the next few weeks!


 Posted by on April 11, 2014 About Your Car, First Look Tagged with: , ,
Nov 272013

Normally, when one of our shop cars goes up for sale, we just sell it the way it sits. However, for this car I am going to try something different. The buyer will be able to build the car to the specifications they want. That means, starting with a base car with a base price, then allowing the customer to build it up with a few options.  Whatever stage the car ends up, it can be dyno tuned and given proof of power with the dyno graph. The idea is to offer my 08 STI at a price point that suites almost any customer. To give you an idea, we are looking at setting up the car with 330-500 Wheel HP, and then of course all supporting mods to go with it. That means you have the ability to pick the turbo, pick the fuel system, pick the ECU, and a few other options.


The base car is a 2008 Subaru STI with 40K miles. There will be a few constants for all packages at the base price of $28,000. This price point, allows any buyer to get a normal loan for a car they typically couldn’t. Starting with $28,000 as a base, is the same price as you would find a used 2008 STI selling for.

  • Car-Wrapped in matte black. Done by me, but with panels not full sheets. Check the write up I did. 2011 STI front bumper.
  • Engine- Built by me with Cosworth Rods, Cosworth Pistons, ARP Head Studs, OEM bearings,and high pressure oil pump mod.
  • Exhaust- PERRIN BigTube Header, custom Uppipe, custom Downpipe, Custom bumper exit catback system w/ exhaust valve.
  • Intercooler- PERRIN FMIC with white powder coated tubes.
  • Fuel system- PERRIN rails, ID1000 Injectors, Properly installed Walbro pump
  • Drivetrain- PERRIN Short shifter, Reverse Lock out Lever, Shifter bushings, Shift knob, and Rear Subframe lockdown.
  • Suspension- PERRIN Front 25mm Swaybar, 22mm Rear Swaybar, Zero Offset PSRS, and H&R Street Performance Coilovers
  • Wheels Tires- PIAA FR-S 18×9.5, Michelin Pilot Sport 275/40/R18
  • Extra- PERRIN Thermal Blanket for Header Uppipe and Turbo.
  • PERRIN Wing riser kit and antenna are the only external items on the car.
  • PERRIN Air Oil Separator


There are many options for the car, but the below list is showing what we can easily setup. Some of these parts are new and some of them are from one of the many stages of my car.

  • ECU- AccessPORT ($0), Cosworth ECPro w/wideband EGT and ACT ($3000)
  • Gauges- None ($0), Prosport boost/EGT ($200), Defi Amber BF gauges ($400)
  • Methanol Injection using PERRIN PWI-2 , with Aquamist DDS-3 flow gauge/safety control. ($300)
  • Engine Mounts stock (0$), PERRIN Engine and Tranny Mounts ($300) or Group N Engine and Tranny Mounts, ($300)
  • TGV deletes ($200)
  • Comp Clutch ($0), Exedy Twin Plate ($800), ACT Extreme Duty ($600)
  • Turbo Stock Location- Blouch 18GXT($1000), Blouch 3.0XTR ($1400),
  • Turbo Rotated Turbo Kit- Garrett GTX3076R, ($2200) GTX3582 ($3000), Borg Warner EFR6758 ($2200)Borg Warner EFR7670 ($2500), Borg Warner 8374 ($2800)
  • Interior- Dash covered in synthetic suade lightly faded ($0), New-ish stock interior, $1000.
  • PERRIN Fuel Surge Tank setup, $500
  • Extra- We can almost add anything. You name it, we can add it!


As it sits, the car has an EFR6758 turbo, Accessport, and tuned to 400 Wheel HP and includes the WMI system and Defi gauges.  Leaving the car in this state, the price is $30,900, and adding some of the options can easily exceed $38,000. The added cost of all these parts/labor comes to well over $15,000 in extras. So a customer looking to buy these parts over time, can save huge money just buying the car already setup.



This car has made 240WHP all the way to 500WHP. These are a couple of the graphs showing recent HP with EFR turbos.


It’s car that has been driven and used for R&D since 2007. So it’s not perfect. The wrap job isn’t perfect, the interior is faded, the engine is built looser to withstand the higher boost and requires good warm up, and the front tires are not in perfect order. You will still find that while it’s not perfect, it is in much better condition than many stock STI’s out there for sale.


When buying a car that has a price higher than the value of a stock car, the buyer may typically have to come up with the extra cash. This may not always be the case, but something to ask your bank about. In this case, I will accept wire transfer, cashiers check, or verified bank check, and if you have some trouble getting a loan, we can actually help you find someone. This car is being sold by me not the company.


I think it goes without saying, SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY!! Test rides will be given to serious offers. If you want to know how an STI drives, go to the dealer and drive one. This car isn’t always located at PERRIN Performance, so please call before you want to take a look at it.

Link to a PERRIN PROMO Video done by Chris Miller



Below is a few pictures showing off the car in its many states. If there are specific pictures you are looking for, let me know and I will upload them!




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 Posted by on November 27, 2013 Cars For Sale Tagged with: , ,
Nov 062013
Updated from July 2010 post with new pics and new data!
When Subaru released the Version 8 STI in Japan we noticed how they moved to a twin scroll turbo and equal length exhaust manifold. This is what inspired us to make our first header for the WRX/STI! Would taking the equal length design of this JDM header and adapting it to fit our US cars actually make a difference in power? Would it spool worse?  How would the sound change?


The design of the PERRIN equal length is very different from the rest of our competition.  You will not find huge oversized tubing here just to make it look cool.  You will find proper sized tubing designed for the perfect balance of response and HP for applications beyond 400WHP.   Since all of the 2.5L turbo engines come with an oil pan with a large cutout in the side this allows us to build it similar to the JDM header that inspired us. Many other headers collect on the passenger side of the engine, and due to space constraints can”t be truly equal length without compromising flow, and clearances.  Because we use the added room around the oil pan, we can create a smooth transition of the header primaries to the collectors, and from collectors to the uppipe connection. This is why our header makes power across the entire RPM band.

A small but important feature to our header is that it is designed to fit to the factory uppipe. This allows for simple installation to either an OEM uppipe, aftermarket uppipe, and our rotated turbo kits.This is important you can upgrade any part of the system when you choose to.




The biggest question is, does it add HP and do it without losing any response? We tested this on many applications, but below you will see HP results that cover most every customer we deal with. In the past headers were a trade-off.  Some top end power was gained where some low end power, and boost response was lost. Also the minimal gains made the Cost vs. HP scenario not look so hot.  As we (and customers) have proven, the equal length design of the PERRIN header, gives you the best of both worlds.  Tons of low end power gained and still the top end power.  We find a minimum of 30Ft-lbs of torque gained at lower RPM, and around 15ft-lbs everywhere else. Same goes for Wheel HP, roughly 30WHP at lower RPM,and about 15wHP every where else.  Talk about the Cost vs. HP scenario looking good!

Results: Stage 3 Legacy GT

This graph illustrates the significant torque gains throughout the power band.  This car was a 2005 Legacy GT with a Stage 3 setup.  This includes a PERRIN TMIC, ECU retune, Turboback exhaust and uppipe installed. The only change between runs was the OEM header for the PERRIN Header.  More than 20WHP and 30ft-lbs of torque was gained!  This Graph also represents what you would see on a 2008+ WRX.


Results: Stage 2 STI

Below is a test a Nasioc Member did on a stage 2 STI. This car had just an ECU flash and turbo back which represents the most common setup we see on an STI. The only change between runs was the OEM header for the PERRIN Header, no ECU tuning!  More than 15WHP and 20ft-lbs of torque was gained!



Results: STI with a GT3582R Rotated Turbo Kit

This graph illustrates how the header works on a car with a huge GT3582R Turbo.  This has has many modifications to support the huge power from this turbo.  The only change between runs was the OEM header for the PERRIN Header, no ECU tuning!  With the boost at a reasonable 22psi and again no other changes between runs, 10WHP was gained up top.  But where this header really shines, is at lower RPMS where it spools the turbo quicker making 30WHP and 50ft-lbs fo TQ. Graph provided by NASIOC member Tim Gentil.


This below graph illustrates the boost response of the car above. You can see how changing the header makes the turbo spool quicker.  At 22psi the turbo spools quicker by almost 500 RPM!  Graph provided by NASIOC member Tim Gentil.



NASIOC Test of 5 Headers

The below test is another one done on a public forum using and independent tester and dyno. Of the 5 headers, there was a clear winner and a clear loser. The stock header was the lowest HP and the PERRIN was the highest. The other headers are some of the other popular headers as well as a ported stock header.





The only downfall with the header is the loss of the Subaru sound.  The lumpy, thumpy boxer sound everyone has come to love becomes a nice smooth buttery sound, for everyone to fall in love with all over again.  Because of the unequal nature of the OEM header, the exhaust pulses are paired together causing that lumpy sound.  The PERRIN header changes the note of the exhaust because the sound pulses from the exhaust are equalized and spread out, causing the smoother, more refined sound coming from the exhaust. This is a love/hate kind of a thing. You either are a die hard “boxer rumble” guy and don’t care about the added power, or someone who is looking for a nicer more refined sound that wants the most from their Subaru.



The headers are made from mandrel bent 304 stainless steel tubing that is TIG welded throughout and use CNC machined 304 SS flanges. This high end type of manufacturing is how all our exhaust parts are made, but the flanges are what really make our parts stand out.

As you see, our flanges are counterbored for smoother transitions from tubing to the inside of the flange. The other important thing to take note of is the center bores of each flange (smallest hole). These are also matched to their mating parts to ensure a smoother exhaust flow and ensure the gaskets will seal properly. Look at our competition and you will see how they make the flange holes as big as possible to give the appearance they flow more and make more power. You will also see the customers using these other headers constantly fight gaskets blowing out because the larger holes leave the gaskets exposed to the extremely high exhaust temps. We make the flanges the correct size to ensure the fire ring on OEM gaskets are kept away form the high exhaust gases to ensure your gasket will last a very long time.


Oil Pan and Installation of Header on 2.0L Engines

Since the 04 STI was released with the oil pan with the large cut-out on the right side, this allowed us added room to create a smooth transition of the header primaries to the collectors, and collectors to uppipe. The problem is not all cars have this oil pan, and some cars do not have the same oil cooler to allow the PERRIN Header to fit. This affects the 2002-07 WRX and there are a few things that need to be modified in order to allow it to fit. Below is the info and part numbers needed to help guide you through the necessary steps to get the PERRIN Equal Length Header installed on your 02-07 WRX.

For the 02-05 WRX (2.0L engine) the modification is simple. You need to replace your oil pan and oil pick up with the parts from a 2004-2014 STI. Besides the installation being a bit messy, this is not a very hard job to do. A DIY’er might take 4 hours total with cleaning and reinstallation.

For the 06-07 WRX (2.5L engine) the car has the correct oil pan, but Subaru installed a weird oil cooler. These cars come with an oil cooler that is angled back toward the rear of the car, which causes interference with our header. These cars you need to purchase the oil cooler, and oil feed pipe from an 02-04 WRX or 04-14 STI. These cars require quite a few things to be removed, see the below diagram.




2002-2005 WRX *Requires STI type oil pan and oil pickup.
2006-2007 WRX *Requires modification to the oil cooler (Please call for details.)
2004-2005 Forester XT *Requires STI type oil pan, oil pickup, and 02-04 WRX oil cooler.
2006+ Forester XT *Requires the 02-04 WRX oil cooler.
2004-2007 STI Yes, No modification
2005-2009 Legacy GT Yes, No modification
2008+ WRX Yes, No modification
2008+- STI Yes, No modification


Oil Pan with Header Cutout Subaru Part #11109aa151 - Est. Price $108.28
Oil Pick Up Tube Subaru Part #15049aa110 - Est. Price $26.98
Oil Cooler Assembly Subaru Part #21311aa051 - Est. Price $219.95
Oil Feed Pipe Subaru Part #21317aa02 - Est. Price $43.38
O-ring (not needed unless damaged) Subaru Part #21370ka00 - Est. Price $5.82



Counter Bullet Points

  • Ours- Proven 15-20WHP gain on all cars. Done publically and on our own dyno.
  • Theirs- Claimed HP never matches what people see on the dyno.
  • Ours- CNC machined 304SS flanges with counterbores for smoother transitions.
  • Theirs- Mild Steel then Chrome plated to keep flange from rusting.
  • Ours- Tig welded on the outside of each flange connection
  • Theirs- Welded on outside and inside, which causes lots of stress on the inner tubing and will crack.
  • Ours- Perfect sized tubing to make power 15-20WHP on any size turbo
  • Theirs- Oversized to look cooler! 
  • Ours- No flex joints!
  • Theirs-Flex joints installed that blow out over time due to extreme pressure and temperature.
  • Ours- Made 100% in the USA!
  • Theirs- Made overseas somewhere….
  • Ours- Fits with factory uppipe and the PERRIN  uppipe.
  • Theirs- Sometimes requires their uppipe which cost more and adds more time to the install.


Check out the BIG Tube Header Blog Post!


Oct 242013

We are always looking to push the limits of the cars we build parts for. We have made huge power with the STI’s, WRX’s, EVO’s and then with the BRZ using a Vortech SC kit. In all these situations the cars are boosted in one form or another, which makes it really easy to make more power.

Now we want to push the limits of the stock BRZ engine in its naturally aspirated form. In this first post we will see how much power we can make with two constants. The OEM header with cat will be used as well as the stock engine with stock cams. These are two important factors as we know that there is more HP to gain from the engine changing these parts. Since our main customer base isn’t going to do this, we wanted to show what kind of power you can get with going with simpler bolt ons.


We originally created the 3.0″ catback and 3.0″ front pipe for customers that want to make the most power from their forced induction kit (Supercharged or Turbocharged). In this case we wanted to see how these bigger exhaust pieces would work on the naturally aspirated engine.  We suspected more HP but the question is how much. We also wanted to prove that a bigger exhaust doesn’t loose low end power and gain only top end power. This is a huge misconception with customers modifying their naturally aspirated BRZ that we know is a myth.

In our first test we started out with our shop BRZ in Stage 2 form. This means, it has a 2.5″ catback, 2.5″ front pipe with cat, 2.5″ overpipe and a specific ECUTEK tune for these parts. In this test we left the stock intake system on the car to reduce the variables with power. After the normal warm up and multiple runs, we saw 183 Wheel HP as the peak HP number and 155ft-lbs of torque as the peak torque number. As quickly as we could (about 10 minutes) threw on the 3.0″ front pipe and 3.0″ catback exhaust and did more runs. We left the same Stage 3 ECUTEK tune on the car as before so the only change was the exhaust system.


As you can see, this test shows that a 3.0″ exhaust DOES make more power than the 2.5″ exhaust. You can also see that there is NO loss in power or torque anywhere. And with gains of 5-8 WHP and 4-5 ft-lbs of torque, there is no reason NOT to buy our 3.0″ system over the 2.5″ system.

The next test we did was install our 3.0″ intake system and retune the ECU for this new setup. Adding the 3.0″ intake and retuning allowed for a bit more HP over the Stage 2 with 3.0″ exhaust and stock intake. We were able to squeeze out another 4 Wheel HP from around 6500 RPM to redline, which ended up making 192 Wheel HP. This was the most we had ever seen on the naturally aspirated BRZ. Having all the 3.0″ parts together, and the custom tune for this creates our Stage 3 setup. The below graph compares the PERRIN Stage 2 setup to the PERRIN Stage 3 setup.


This last comparison is showing a stock BRZ to the final PERRIN Stage 3 setup. The torque dip is narrowed, there is ZERO loss in HP, a broader HP and TQ range to redline, and with an additional 10-30 wheel HP and 15-20ft-lbs more torque this is an amazing change! This completely transforms the car by removing that lack of overall power, and lack of sound!  Keep in mind that all these tests are done with the stock header (contains a cat), and front pipe with cat!


So real question is, “Why shouldn’t everyone go with the 3.0″ exhaust and intake?”. The only penalty is the 3.0″ parts cost a bit more and the exhaust is a bit louder than the comparable 2.5″ exhaust. At our current MSRP’s, the cost to go from the Stage 2 (2.5″ Exhaust, ECUTEK tune, PERRIN CAI) to Stage 3 (3.0″ Exhaust, ECUTEK tune, PERRIN 3.0″ CAI) is about a $150 increase. So for those who do not have any parts yet, the $150 increase is well worth it.

The cost to gain 30 Wheel HP is around $3100. This is still far less than a turbo or supercharger kit (with proper tune) and will satisfy most customers HP goals for a long time to come.

What is next for PERRIN and BRZ/FR-S in regards to naturally aspirated power?  You will just have to wait and see!

Oct 182013

By far the most popular setup for the BRZ and FR-S is a header back exhaust system. This consists of a 2.5″ overpipe, 2.5″ front pipe with cat, and a 2.5″ exhaust system, and sometimes an intake system. Its been very well proven that these parts add a decent amount of HP to the car as well as some cool sounds. We have also proven that our Stage 1 ECU tune (for a stock BRZ or FR-S) is perfectly safe to run on a car with a headerback exhaust. What we haven’t proven is that we can add even more power with further ECU tuning with all the 2.5″ exhaust system pieces installed. What we will show is that additional tuning of these parts will make more HP and create our Stage 2 mapping.


Stage 2 tunes will be what we call a BRZ/FR-S with a 2.5″ overpipe, 2.5″ front pipe with cat, 2.5″ exhaust system and a custom ECU tune to go with it. All the below tests are done with the stock header. Like all our other dyno tests we started with the car and did a bunch of runs to get the oil temps up and engine nice and hot. This seems to be an important step to getting the dyno runs to be consistent and be able to make accurate changes to the tune. The base runs were done with out Stage 1 ECUTEK tune for our 92 octane fuel, but with the full PERRIN 2.5″ catted header back exhaust system. Then we spent time retuning the ECU to push the limits of the engine.


As you can see, we were able to gain more power almost everywhere! With a lot of time spent changing cam timing, fueling and ignition timing to get these gains. From this test we were able to conclude our PERRIN Stage 2 ECU tuning. This will be created for all the different intakes we offer, and for both 91 octane fuel and 92+ octane fuel. In the below dyno graph, we took our new Stage 2 tune and added the popular PERRIN cold air intake (2.75″ size). This does require a recalibration of the MAF scaling to ensure the AFR is exactly the same as stock. As you can see even more HP is gained! The PERRIN Cold air intake along with the PERRIN Stage 2 tune, makes great upgrade package for those who have the 2.5″ header back exhaust system.



Next up on the dyno is our 3.0″ header back exhaust tests and the custom tune for that….

Take Me To The 3.0″ Exhaust Dyno And Stage 3 Testing!

Oct 152013

From the very beginning, we were big on making sure people knew that our BRZ/FR-S cold air intakes were safe, wouldn’t throw check engine lights, and/or need a tune. These were very important items to hit on as there are many myths surrounding Cold Air Intakes. Some of these myths are, intakes cause CEL’s (Check engine lights), lose power, only make cool sounds, and require ECU tuning or require ECU re-learning to get the benefits from it. We spent a ton of time on the forums, phones, and in person, saying the same thing over and over again, ensuring customers knew our intake was safe and made the HP we claimed. After we spent all that time teaching, you may be wondering why we are making an intake that purposely goes against all those things. More power of course!


ECU Tuning Required!

Having a free flowing intake system is very important when trying to get the most power from the BRZ/FR-S engine in normally aspirated form. The OEM throttle body, as well as the inlet hose, are already 3.0″ connections so it only makes sense to make an intake system that is also made using 3.0″ tubing! This is why we made the PERRIN 3.0″ intake, so that there would be a perfect 3″ tube from the air filter, to the intake manifold. Which would create the least restrictive cold air intake possible. Using the larger tubing, does requires an ECU retune in order to take full advantage of its 3.0″ size. Due to ECU needing recalibration for this kind of part, we waited to release this until we felt that there were enough tuners to be able to support it.

Like always, we will have supporting tunes that are specific to the 3.0″ PERRIN intake system. That means, we will have Stage 1, 2, and 3 tunes in 91 and 92 octane fuel, with stock intake, regular PERRIN cold air intake, and PERRIN 3.0″ cold air intake. One thing we are going to do differently than before, is provide all customers and tuners with the intake calibration! We are doing this to help support the intake and make sure that everyone has the best chance to get a proper tune on their car. Click the link below to download the Excel Spreadsheet with this data.


This 3.0″ intake does NOT replace the regular PERRIN cold air intake for the BRZ/FR-S. That intake is still necessary to have for those looking for more HP without being forced to have a custom ECU tune.


Dyno Proven Horsepower

As we said, the most important reason for making this part is to add some power to your car. The question is, how much power is this really worth? Does it make more HP than the regular PERRIN CAI?

Our first test that we did was on a totally stock FR-S. Like always, we did 10 or so runs to get the oil temps up to normal operating temperature. After the HP of the car settled out, we swapped to the regular PERRIN BRZ/FR-S cold air intake and did some more runs. During these tests, the ECU was NOT tuned and was running all factory mapping. We then swapped to the PERRIN 3.0″ intake, and ONLY changed the MAF scaling (the map that calibrates the MAF sensor) in the ECU. Meaning, that we didn’t do any other tuning like adding timing, changing cam timing, leaning out the AFR, or anything like that, which would add more HP. As you can see, the below comparison shows that the 3.0″ is less restrictive at redline and actually adds some low end HP!  This setup isn’t going to be very common, but we did this to help build the MAF scaling/calibration for all the other upcoming tunes.



The next test we did, was testing it against the more common setup, which we call Stage 2. Stage 2 consists of a 2.5″ over pipe, 2.5″ front pipe with cat, 2.5″ catback exhaust, and an ECU tune that is specific to all those parts. Optionally, the Stage 2 setup can have an intake system added to it as well. Our PERRIN Stage 2 tune, changes the redline to 7900 RPM, which is important to know as the larger intake carries the HP gains all the way to redline. In the Stage 2 testing we are showing below, we tested PERRIN Stage 2 with the regular PERRIN intake (MAF re-calibrated in ECU tune) versus the 3.0″ PERRIN intake (MAF re-calibrated in ECU tune). As you can see, the PERRIN 3.0″ intake makes more power across the whole RPM band. The gains in HP are a decent 3-6HP change OVER the regular PERRIN cold air intake, which is pretty awesome! And this is with the stock header, and front pipe with a cat!



In the next dyno proving session, we decided to test the 3.0″ intake on our Stage 3 setup. The Stage 3 setup consists of the 2.5″ over pipe, 3.0″ front pipe with cat, 3.0″ catback exhaust, and an ECU tune that is specific to all those parts. What we found with Stage 3, is we were starting to hit the limits of air flow with the stock FA20 engine. We could get almost the same HP from the Stage 3 setup with stock intake as we could with the Stage 2 setup with the 3.0″ intake. Also on the Stage 3 setup, the regular PERRIN cold air intake didn’t make much of a change in HP over the stock air box. What we did find is that running a full 3.0″ system (intake and exhaust) made the most HP we ever saw from a normally aspirated FR-S with a stock header and catted front pipe.



In the above test, we ran the Stage 3 setup with the stock intake against the Stage 3 setup with the PERRIN 3.0″ intake. The 3.0″ intake makes the biggest different in the midrange where it gains 4 Wheel HP, and from 6800 to redline gaining 4-5 Wheel HP. Another cool finding is that it narrows the torque dip slightly making it even less noticeable!

In all these situations, you can see how the 3.0″ intake makes more power than the normal PERRIN cold air intake and the stock air box, when properly tuned for. For those that are considering getting an ECU tune (like our ECUTEK setup), still have not purchased an intake system, and are looking to get the more HP from your FA20 engine, we highly recommend getting the PERRIN 3.0″ intake over the regular PERRIN intake.


Read up on previous posts about the PERRIN BRZ/FR-S intakes:

BRZ Intake Design and Proving

BRZ Intake Design and Proving Part 2


Jan 312013

All PERRIN Custom Tune ECUTEK Maps have built in map switching. This feature allows us to create one tune that has multiple features built in, that are selectable by the end user. With the ECUTEK ProECU software we are able to select the different maps using the cruise control stick. This allows for (4) total maps to be selected by simply pulling back on the cruise stick and push it up and down to change maps. The ability to change maps quickly and on the fly is a very useful feature as it allows for things like Launch Control, Flat Foot Shifting, Auto Blip Downshift, more ignition timing,  leaner AFR to all be changed on the fly!


How Does It Work?

To enable the map switching, first pull back on the cruise stick (toward the driver) for about 4 seconds. You will see the tachometer change to 1000 indicating map 1. Push the cruise stick up to select map 2, and the tach will go to 2000 RPM and same goes for map 3 and 4. Push the cruise stick down and you will change to the previous selected map. When you are finished choosing the map you desire, pull the cruise control stick back one more time and that locks in the map. Its as simple as that!

A Few Special Notes:

  •  All of this works as long as the key is in the on position. That means the map can be selected with the engine running or with engine off.
  • Every time you turn off the car and start it again, it will default back to map number 1.
  • After selecting a map, the tach needle will resort back to the current engine RPM.
  • After enabling map switching, you have roughly 5 seconds to choose a map or the ECU will default back to the last map.
  • Maps are indicated using the tachometer needle. Map #1 is indicated by the needle resting at 1000RPM, Map #2 is indicated by the needle resting at 2000RPM, Map #3 is indicated by the needle resting at 3000RPM, and Map #4 is indicated by the needle resting at 4000RPM.


What Are The Features And How Do They Work?

Launch Control (LC)

The most requested feature is launch control. This is an alternate RPM limit that is activated when the vehicle is NOT moving and the clutch is depressed. After quickly giving the engine full throttle, the launch control (LC) RPM limit is enabled and RPM’s will hold at a preset point (example 3000 RPM). As soon as the clutch is release and the vehicle speed raises, the RPM limit now resorts back to the main RPM limit  (Redline or 7500+ RPM).  This allows for consistent launching while doing drag racing. While LC is enabled and working, the actual launch RPM can be adjusted by moving the cruise control stick up to raise the RPM, or down to lower the RPM.

Flat Foot Shifting (FFS)

Another really cool feature we utilize is Flat Foot Shifting. Flat Foot Shifting (FFS) is something that goes by many names, but they all do the same basic thing. When FFS is enabled, this means that you can be at full throttle and shift to the next higher gear without having to lift your foot off the gas pedal! This has a lot of benefits, but mainly its that it maintains speed during shifting. It also allows for faster and smoother shifts, which all leads to faster lap times. FFS is enabled any time the engine is at full throttle, and the clutch gets depressed. The ECU looks at the current RPM and cuts the fuel until the RPM drops to match the next gear.  For instance, if you are full throttle in 3rd gear at 6000RPM and you push in the clutch (keeping your foot full throttle) the RPM’s will drop roughly 1000RPM to match the next higher gear. This feature works from 2000RPM to redline. That means you can give the engine full throttle at 4000RPM in 2nd gear, shift to the next higher gear and the ECU will drop the RPM’s to match going into 3rd. So it can be used in all situations, not just shifting at redline.

Auto Blip Downshift (ABDS)

Lastly is the Auto-Blip Downshift feature to help with decelerating and changing to the next lower gear. When Auto-Blip Downshift (ABDS) is enable, it helps with blipping the throttle to raise the RPM to better match the next lower gear while downshifting. Normally this is done using the Heel-Toe method of downshifting, where you have your right foot on the brake and gas at the same time and while you are braking, you roll your foot over to the gas pedal and give it a blip to raise the RPM’s up.  ABDS is setup so you just need to use your right foot to brake with and the ECU does the blipping. With this feature enabled, it is activated when your foot is pressing on the brake, and then you depress the clutch to downshift to the next lower gear. The ECU will automatically blip the throttle to raise the RPM to match the next gear. It does not work if you press in the clutch then hit the brakes, only if you hit the brakes then operate the clutch.  Example of this working is say you are at 4000RPM in 4th gear and you are approaching a turn that requires 3rd gear. As you apply the brakes, then hit the clutch and start to shift to 3rd gear, the ECU raises the RPM to roughly 5000RPM to match the next lower gear. As you release the clutch in 3rd gear, the RPM’s will be matched and you will be able to smoothly accelerate through the turn.

Other features we can add are things like changes to fueling and ignition timing. This allows us to add or remove HP from each map. With 4 maps and the ability to run different igniting timing between them allows us to add more timing or remove timing which effects HP. Same goes for fueling changes. We can lean out the fuel or richen it up to effect overall HP. What we normally find is that everyone wants the most power, so these features are left up to those that want to change HP with the flip of a switch. We can easily remove 20 HP from our base map by changing both fueling and timing.


How Does PERRIN Setup Each Of The (4) Maps?

As you can see, we have the ability to setup each map in may different ways, but we have narrowed this down to 1 main version that we feel will cover 99% of our customer base. We can modify these maps to specific customer specs if the customer requests. This may result in an additional charge to the customer. If you are interested in this, please contact

On-The-Fly Maps for Normally Aspirated Tunes

  • Map#1 is setup with our base tuned map, which adds about 10 WHP and a redline of 8000RPM.
  • Map#2 has Launch Control (LC) added to the base tuned map and 1 more degree of timing.
  • Map#3 has Flat Foot Shifting (FFS), and Launch Control (LC) added to the base tuned map, and 1 more degree of timing.
  • Map#4 has Auto-Blip-Downshift (ABDS), Flat Foot Shifting (FFS) and Lauch Control (LC) added to the base tuned map and 2 more degrees of timing.

Recap Of On-The-Fly Maps for Supercharger Tunes

  • Map#1 TBA
  • Map#2 TBA
  • Map#3 TBA
  • Map#4 TBA

What Other Things Can We Do With Map Switching?

The problem is there are a million possibilities! ECUTEK built in custom mapping which allows us to setup our own maps based off most any engine parameter and take that data and do something with it. This could be as simple as turning on a light, or adding a new input for a gauge (like a wideband 02 sensor), or to something like special traction control, or even boost control!  The possibilities are almost endless! With so many options and with such huge potential, we leave most of these things up to customers that need those extra special things for their extra special setups. Custom PERRIN maps using features beyond the 4 maps we setup will be subject to an additional charge. Please contact for further info.


Jan 152013

We spent a long time designing and testing our BRZ intake system to ensure that when our customers recieve the part, it will make the HP we claim, not cause any drivability issues, and be easy to install. After seeing many intakes with bogging issues, drivability issues, and poor MAF sensor placement, I knew that our intake would be a hit. If you missed the first blog post about our intake and design process, you can read up about the initial design in PART 1 located HERE. Part 2 of the BRZ/ FR-S intake design, goes into more details about our intake, why its better than others and it reveals a couple things we had been keeping secret.


Dyno Proven Horsepower!

The most important reason for making this part is to add some power to your car. You can see from the above graph that this intake adds a few extra HP. This test was done on a bone stock BRZ with no other mods and no ECU tune, and with a solid 4 Wheel HP gain, that isn’t too bad! Like most intakes for cars it mainly effects the HP from the midrange RPM to redline. In this case with as light as this car is, this is something you will surely notice.

How did we come up with this design?How does it work? Is it safe? These are important questions to answer for anyone looking at an intake for their car.


No ECU Tuning Required!

Equally important to HP, is making sure the intake is 100% safe to bolt on, and doesn’t require an ECU recalibration, or retune. This is important to understand as intake systems are not all created equal and if not made correctly, they can mess up how the car runs and lose power. On the other hand, the may trick the ECU into making power, by leaning the AFR out, which can really mess up how the car runs after an ECU recalibration is done. This can lead to very dangerous lean conditions and could lead to engine failures.

In the world of intake systems, anytime a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor is used to meter airflow to the engine, its important to design around this to ensure that no ill effects occur.  We mentioned leaning out the AFR with a poorly made intake is bad, but what is AFR,  and what is safe? Check out the first blog post about this as there is a good explanation of it. For now, lets just say that an intake should replicate the stock AFR curve in order to be 100% safe to install on any car in any stage of tune.

Intakes generally require an ECU retune(or recalibration) to compensate for the change in airflow readings. This is because intake manufacturers can use a variety of different style MAF flanges, tubing sizes, and even bends before and after the MAF sensor can all create different readings for the ECU. These readings can affect how the car runs in all conditions, but most importantly under full throttle. An intake can cause a dangerously lean condition under full throttle, which can lead to engine damage or worse yet a catastrophic failure. These are all key factors in how we design an intake for the BRZ/FR-S.

Using the above graph you can see the AFR curve of the stock BRZ/FR-S intake, compared to the PERRIN Cold Air intake. You can see how the AFR is virtually the same from 4000 RPM to redline. This is important to understand as this means, its not running too lean, or too rich under full throttle, which both can loose power or lead to dangerous conditions. As more and more ECU reflashes or tunes come out that are based on stock intakes, you can be ensured that they will still be safe using our intake.


True Cold Air Intake

This feature is what really makes ours stand out from other intakes being offered. From the pictures below, you can see that we put the air filter in the bumper, not in the engine bay. This is the best place to put the filter to ensure your engine gets as much fresh cold air as possible. This does add some time to the installation (30 minutes or so) because the bumper has to come off to install it. We include very good instructions on how to do this which makes it easy for anyone with a set of basic tools to do. So don’t be scared by the fact the bumper has to come off!

Why is this true cold air so important? For a Normally Aspirated engine, every little thing counts. Dropping the air temp entering the engine even a coupe of degrees will make a difference in HP gained. So we took it a step further to ensure there was perfect cold ambient air for the intake to suck from.

The above diagram you can see how the air flow path as it enters the lower bumper opening and toward the intake. As air enters the lower grill it’s split into two directions, through the radiator and then up behind the bumper beam toward the intakes “ram air” tube. Naturally this would be a good place to get air from as its nice cold ambient air from the front of the car. This is why we put our intake and filter in the bumper, to make sure that it would get the coolest air possible at all times. You can see in the diagram below that the filter is hiding behind the bumper above the bumper beam where the air swirls around it.

Why did we go to all these lengths to get fresh air when the stock intake has a nice ram air scoop built in to the car? Simple, the” ram-air-scoop”, only provides fresh air to the OEM intake system, not ram air! Using this to “blow” air over a filter located in the engine bay, or into an open air box doesn’t work. Since most of the big aftermarket intake companies are using an air box type setup that don’t really seal to the OEM plastic scoop, this means that some amount of hot air will get into the intake. That means some loss of potential HP.

How did we figure this out? We thought it might be cool to use the scoop to blow air at a filter and create a short ram type intake. To test how much air really comes out of scoop, we setup a test while the car is bolted to the dyno. We removed the air box, fired up our dyno fans and took some air flow readings using my trusty anemometer.


The findings were very interesting.  The test was done with the front bumper on and the car was completely stock. With both dyno fans  blowing into the lower bumper we measured a constant 35MPH. With the air box removed, we were measuring a whopping .5MPH! Yes, virtually nothing! I couldn’t even feel air coming out. The next test was removing the plastic air diverter which rests between the fresh air scoop and the lower portion of the bumper. This part is installed to help block some of the air from blowing up and around the radiator. With the diverter removed, there was a nice steady noticeable amount of air flow coming from the scoop at 1.5MPH. This sounds like it would be a great way to make our intake system get a little more flow and cool air, or would it…

After testing this on the road, we found this was a really bad idea. The added pressure and airflow while driving at 45MPH or more would cause the car to run poorly and actually die if you push in the clutch! So the plastic diverter got re-installed and the PERRIN intake would be designed around utilizing this part.

In the above picture you can see the final product and filter, along with where its placed behind the bumper. The filter is placed between the bumper beam and plastic diverter to allow for maximum air flow around the filter along with a perfect cold bath of air surrounding it. You can also see the 2 piece custom filter that we include with all our intake systems. This 2 piece design allows the main portion of the filter and intake to be left in place and just the foam portion of the filter be removed for cleaning. This also makes for a much easier cleaning and re-oiling process. It allows you to wash, dry and apply oil much easier being able to handle it and wring it out.

To recap, the PERRIN BRZ/FR-S Cold air intake is designed to perform safely and work with any ECU tune, be installed by anyone with basic tools. It makes a decent amount of HP, adds some cool new sounds to your BRZ, and all that for a reasonable price. This hits on all the important things customers are looking for in an intake system, so give us a ring and lets get one on order for you!



What Is The Future For The PERRIN Intakes?

You may have seen the below graph from past posts. This is showing a special 3″ intake system designed around cars pushing the normally aspirated power to the max. This intake is NOT safe to bolt on your car. It requires an ECU re-calibration in order to work. That means our ECUTEK tuning tools must be purchased in order to safely run this intake. We are not releasing this intake to start with because 90% of our customers are not going to want to be forced into spending $850 just to run an intake. This intake is for the future, where there are more customers running our ECUTEK ECU reflashes or tunes, and we can simply send them a map to allow this to be safely ran.

But to entice those who might be interested in this option, you can see below that the intake with a custom ECUTEK Tune from PERRIN on top of it, can make for a huge HP gain. Look for this option in the upcoming months.


 Posted by on January 15, 2013 BRZ / FR-S, Dyno Test & Tune, Part Design & Tech
Jan 072013

It may be obvious to some that you want to keep your oil cool under heavy load and extreme conditions. This keeps your oil from becoming too thin, or breaking down,which makes it less effective and could lead to premature engine wear or even engine failures! Another reason to keep your oil temps down is it keeps other engine components cooler which is good for HP. Until the BRZ/FR-S platform, we never really noticed oil temps playing a role as to how much HP an engine was making.


Hot Oil Loses HP!

As an engines combustion chamber becomes hotter, it can become more detonation prone. Detonation or knock, is a bad thing as this not only causes a loss in power it also adds an enormous amount of stress to pistons and connecting rods, which can lead to failures. Controlling your engines overall temperature is very important to longevity and durability under extreme conditions. The BRZ/FR-S controls your engines coolant temp very well, but not the oil temp!

The BRZ/FR-S engine does not have any kind of oil cooling system built into the engine. The only thing that cools the oil down is ambient air flowing around the engine, and the engine block as oil passes by it. Neither of these do a good job of keeping oil temps in check and proof of this can be seen during simple low HP dyno testing. During development of many parts we found that oil temp was vital to making power. As oil temps would raise past 100C (212F) we started to see HP drop. Here is an example of the variance in HP we started to see.

What you can’t see very clearly is how the first few runs where the oil was about 70C, it was loosing a small amount of HP. As the temps climbed to 85-100C the HP maxed out and as the temps climbed above 100C the HP started to drop.  For reference coolant temp on this engine is virtually no problem at all. The stock system easily handles added HP. During all tests show here, the coolant temps never went above 92C. The above dyno plot is of a stock FR-S that we were doing base line dyno runs on. You can see a 10 HP swing here. If other tuners or aftermarket part companies don’t take this into consideration or at least eliminate the variable, you can quickly make a test for a catback exhaust look really good, or really bad! This is a factor we have to deal with all the time but with the oil cooler this goes away!

What causes the oil temp to raise? Oil pressure and friction are a huge factor. The higher the pressure, the harder the oil pump is working, which means more friction and higher temps. With more HP or TQ from the engine, again more friction is occurring from pistons sliding up and down on cylinder walls, to oil being forced between very fast moving parts. Cylinder head temps also increase the temp. The combustion process is very hot and even though there is a cooling system in the engine, a lot of oil passes by the combustion chamber around the head, which increases the oils temps as well. There are lots of factors that increase oil temperature  and if there is nothing to control this, the temps will continue to climb to dangerous levels and HP and reliability will continue to fall!


Hard Data

With all we had planned to do to the BRZ/FR-S platform, we knew that oil temp would be a huge problem so this is what sparked us to make an Oil Cooler specific to this car. In order to prove to customers that this would be a good/necessary part for their BRZ/FR-S, we had to come up with a test that would be consistent and show the benefits and the actual change in temp.

In the below diagram you can see the difference in oil temp during two different sets of dyno runs. The test was 6 runs with the PERRIN Oil Cooler and 6 runs without an oil cooler, each with 30 seconds of rest between each run. The above graph shows the 6th run of each set overlaid on each other. You can see that the PERRIN Oil Cooler (Blue Line) kept the oil temps much cooler through the run compared to no oil cooler (Red Line).

A little more detail about the above graph. This was done with an engine that was warmed up and oil temp sitting at about 70C. We did 6 runs with 30 second breaks between them. The 5th run without the oil cooler showed a peak oil temp of 102C, and during the recovery time it would only drop to about 96. The 6th and final run would show the oil temp climbing up to 105C! I continued to push and do some further tuning, and oil temps would hit 112C after the 8th run and never drop below 103C during the rest periods. 112C is 233F which is very hot and considering this isn’t a constant load like you would see on the track or during an autocross, things would only get worse.

The second set of tests were done the same but with the PERRIN Oil Cooler installed. Since our oil cooler has an 85C thermostat built into it, oil temp raised up to 85C by the 3rd run, and would recover down to 80C during the rest period of 30 seconds. From this run to the 6th run and beyond, the oil temps NEVER went above 87C and recovered to 80C during each rest period.  The above graph shows the 6th run overlaid over each other.  This second test was also performed with the car making an EXTRA 80 Wheel HP on top of all that! Meaning the second run with the PERRIN oil cooler had even more stress put on it and even more potential to make for higher oil temps, yet the PERRIN cooler kept the temps perfectly in check.  This was done with a Vortech Supercharger kit installed. One more thing to add, this car made about 20 more dyno runs making 260+ Wheel HP after that 6th run and oil temp NEVER got above 87C! That is amazing and is great proof that the PERRIN oil cooler will easily be able to handle track time, or big HP cars!


What’s In The PERRIN Oil Cooler Kit

Being the first one we ever put into production for PERRIN Performance, we made sure that our kit wouldn’t be one of those kits that was a bunch of loose parts you needed to figure out how it all goes together. We make it complete, with full instructions, and easy enough that anyone with a few tools could install.

Included with each kit is a heat exchanger that will easily support the thermal needs of keeping your engine oil temps in check, a thermostat controlled oil filter adapter to ensure oil temps warm up quickly, mounting brackets, oil filter spacer, NEW Subaru Oil filter, and -10 pre-assembled oil lines, with -10 AN fittings. Of course some detailed instructions are included. The only special tool you may need is a socket, and an extra QT of oil, then the rest of the items are things you may already have in your tool box.

Here is a picture of the oil cooler installed on the engine with a PERRIN cold air intake system in place. The oil cooler is designed that it fits with the OEM intake, and most all aftermarket intakes, including the Vortech Supercharger kit! Routing of the lines is also very simple and works on both BRZ and FR-S models (different headlight passageways). In this picture you can see some of the PERRIN Pyroshield that is covering the oil hose. This is a protective shield for abrasion and wear and tear over time. The PERRIN Pyroshield consists of a fiberglass woven material that has been coated in a thick silicone layer. Silicone provides excellent abrasion resistance as well as the fiber glass creates a strong inner liner that will keep things from wearing through it.

In the above picture you can see the PERRIN heat exchanger mounted to the lower splach guard using some machined aluminum mounting brackets.  These provide a strong base for the core to mount to and also add some really cool looks to the front grill area for those who might peak into there. The placement of our core was designed such that other aftermarket intercoolers would still fit behind our core. This is important as we know our biggest customer for this will be Supercharger kit and turbo kit guys.

How Does it Look?

Whenever we make a part it’s very important to make that part functional first then secondly make sure it looks really good on the car. We choose to put the PERRIN core in the front of the car and centered in the middle of the grill. This tells other people that you have something really cool going on with your car. We also choose to center it in the grill as apposed to others that push it off to one side. This leads to a much more balance appearance at the front of the car.

The oil lines are hidden and as you can see looks very fitting for the front of the car.


What we have done is learned that oil temp makes a big difference in how consistent your car makes HP. We have learned that your engines oil temps will get out of control if nothing is done about it, which can lead to loss of power or major engine failures. The PERRIN Oil Cooler will keep your temps in check and your HP consistent , along with adding a huge amount of safety margin car. Consider a PERRIN oil cooler to be one of the main building blocks to your BRZ/FR-S build if you value your engine long term life.







Jan 012013

In the first installment of The Vortech Supercharger kit blog post, we covered the basics on the kit, but left you hanging with an initial tune that showed great potential for horsepower. Vortech has put the finishing touches on the kit and we have solidified the final tune!  In this installment, I will go over the kit in more detail and even hint at what the future has to hold!


Recap on why we are Supercharging the FA20 engine

I think the reason why a Supercharger kit over a turbo kit makes more sense is to preserve the linear power curve of the car but add that additional 50 more HP that everyone wants. It’s important to protect the fun factor, the perfect handling and balance of the BRZ/FR-S by not adding too much power…actually too much torque! As soon as you introduce that hit of power from the turbo spooling up, it disrupts the car and starts to mess with the drivability of the car. When you have only two tires to deal with torque, you can quickly turn a fun car into a car that is constantly struggling for traction and not easy to control.

If all we do is compare dyno graphs, turbos will always make more low end power. Even then from 5000-7400 the Vortech kit with our map makes the same or more HP. If we compare HP and TQ at really low RPM’s, you can see that the Vortech kit makes more TQ and HP. This below graph is comparing the graphs provided by one turbo kit manufacture running 6psi of boost. The overlay of the graphs is very rough, but it provides you with an idea of the differences.

What we need to compare is how the car feels on the road, as this is where a SC kit really shines! Real race car drivers that drive rear wheel drive cars, always say that normally aspirated power, or a bigger engine, is preferred over a smaller displacement turbo engine. This is because of the modulation of power and the smoothness of the engine. The Vortech kit turns your 2.0L Subaru engine into a drivers type of engine with plenty of modulate-able power.

Turbo kits also have to deal with coolant and oil feed systems. If the car was designed to have one of these, It wouldn’t’ be a big deal, but you have to find coolant sources, and tap into an oil pressure line. After that you have to get rid of the oil going to the turbo and put it back into the motor. This requires a pump that is typically noisy and also another thing to go wrong. As I mentioned before, one of my biggest concerns is thermal management and not melting things. The nice thing about a Vortech supercharger kit, is that there isn’t much to go wrong. Besides boost tubes blowing off(all kits could have this problem) the only other thing that can go wrong is a belt failing. If this happens, it just means you have your stock horsepower back until you get a new one. There is no danger of over boosting (very bad problem with a 12.5-1 CR engine) there is no danger of things melting, there is no coolant hoses or oil lines to deal with. Very simple…


Where Are We Now?

I left you guys last time with this tiny picture showing the first couple clean dyno pulls we did compared to the stock HP runs. Yes it was great power, but I suspected that there was further HP to be gained. This spurred a huge FT86club thread that got out of control at times. I promised more power and results and after a few weeks of road and dyno tuning, we are ready to show off the kit and the final HP it will offer using our supplied custom PERRIN Tune.

So was there more power to extract? Yes! Below is an overlay of the old best run with the final tune. As I suspected there was more of low to mid range horsepower to be gained along with more consistent top end power.  With some optimization of cam timing, fueling and timing maps, I was able to get a few more HP almost everywhere and smooth out things a bit. This test was done on our BRZ with a PERRIN Headerback, 2.5″  system with a cat on 92oct pump gas. This means the stock header with cat was still in place as well as our high flow cat.

As you can see the low end power gains are huge. We have learned a ton about this engine over the last few weeks and one of things we learned enable more power in the 1500-2500 range where the car seemed to be purposely de-tuned. The change was so much that we had to bump the dyno’s launch RPM up to 2000RPM to keep it from overloading the hub torque on the dyno.

Here is a dyno graph comparing a bone stock BRZ to BRZ with Vortech Supercharger kit and PERRIN Header-back exhaust system installed.



Below is a dyno graph comparing a stock FR-S that only has a PERRIN Custom ECU Tune to the Vortech Supercharger kit.




Below is a dyno graph comparing a BRZ that has a PERRIN 2.5″ Headerback exhaust installed to the Vortech SC kit.



When Can You Buy This??

You are able to order this kit from us right now! There is about a two week lead time, but this will change over the next month so don’t worry! The retail price of the Base Tuner Kit is $4295, which includes everything you need except an ECU re-calibration and a MAP sensor to run the car properly. Adding these to the kit adds $xxx to the retail price making it $xxxx for a turn key kit. These are just retail prices, which means we will discount things from that point or offering kits based on items customers already have. We would love to get lots of customers running the Vortech Tuner kit with all our parts, which means we will be discounting things to entice customers to buy all the parts from us.  Edit: check out our website for pricing!

Here is the list of parts we are going to recommend get purchased together.

  1. Vortech Supercharger Tuner Kit for BRZ/FR-S
  2. ECUTEK Reflash Cable/Hardware
  3. PERRIN Custom Vortech Tuner Kit ECU Recalibration
  4. PERRIN 2.5Bar MAP Sensor
  5. PERRIN 2.5″ Overpipe
  6. PERRIN 2.5″ Front Pipe with Catalytic Converter  Edit; discontinued, catted front pipe still recommended.
  7. PERRIN 2.5″ Catback Exhaust

All of these parts will be sold separately of course, but keep in mind all the dyno graphs are shown using the above items.

What Is The Future For PERRIN and Vortech?

Of course it always happens when something new and cool comes out, the first thing people start wondering, is what is next!  We understand that customers have that drive for something more and better, and we are here to answer that. We want customers that buy the Vortech BRZ/FR-S kit from us to be able to easily upgrade the kit from its current form. Weather this be with other bolt ons or something that ups the boost, its important that customers don’t feel like they are stuck with ONLY a 60 Wheel HP upgrade.

We will be offering a smaller supercharger pulley that ups the boost a few more PSI to make for an additional 20 Wheel HP over the standard Vortech BRZ/FR-S Kit with PERRIN custom tune.

During testing and tuing of this setup we started to see the potential boost limit of the BRZ motor on pump fuel. Running 10psi or more from 7200-8000 started to show where this is just too much for pump fuel. Yes we can run more boost and pull back timing but this may not net any more HP.  Again this is early in the development of this pulley upgrade, but who wouldn’t want a safe 100 HP gain over stock! It may be a couple of months before we offer this along with a tune. Until then we may look for a few of our Vortech kit customers for further testing.

How Safe is This Vortech SC Kit?

So how safe is the Vortech Kit? We have tuned this such that its not on bleeding edge of knocking or causing engine damage. In fact all the dyno graphs are showing a detuned state which leaves room on the table for other tuners and or that nice safety factor that we all want.

If you understand what AFR is the above graph may either scare you as it appears way lean, or it may scare you as it appears way rich! AFR  (air fuel ratio) is a measurement of the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine. Sensors like aftermarket Wide Band 02 Sensors are used in the exhaust to be able to accurately read AFR. In this case we have two installed. One is in the tail pipe and one is in the exhaust in the overpipe. The more accurate one is the Innovate Wideband installed in the overpipe as the reading is accurate and very fast. The tail pipe reading when its behind cats reads much leaner than it really is and its a little slow acting. So when we use graphs from our dyno we have to make the AFR reading richer by a solid 1.0AFR. This makes our AFR curve for the Vortech kit in the 11.0-11.3 range (which is what the Innovate Wideband reads). For a forced induction car, this is a good safe AFR to shoot for.

As for the other things we can’t show you like ignition timing, I can say that when tuning we added timing to find the limits then bumped it back a few to ensure that this was a good safe level for customers. So again, we are very confident in the tune, and we are trying to show how safe our tune for the Vortech kit really is!

So I hope that the first post of the year from PERRIN Performance was well worth the wait and gets our BRZ/FR-S customers all excited!  This year will surely be a good one!