Jeff Perrin

Jan 052011

Update 1/05/11

Dyno Results

This is what you have all been waiting for! Finally the “Proven Power” side of things. But first a few questions surrounding the GTX3076R and other GTX turbos.

  • The Question, “Is the GTX turbo Laggier then the GT turbo?” Answer, “NO”
  • The Question, “Is the GTX turbo going to make more power?” Answer, “YES”
  • The Question, “Is the GTX turbo better?” Answer, “See above answers”
  • The Question, “Is the GTX worth the extra money?” Answer, “YES”
  • The Question, “When can I get a PERRIN Kit with one of these?” Answer, “NOW if you ask nice”
The SetupSo my STI was used as the guinea pig for these turbos (along with a bunch of others recently) and its setup exactly like a normal PERRIN GT turbo kit car should be.Parts installed: PERRIN Headers, PERRIN GT Turbo kit, PERRIN FMIC, PERRIN Catback, and our PWI-2 Methanol Injection kit, PERRIN EBCS Pro, Deatchwerks 850cc injectors and Walbro 255lph pump. The engine is built with Cosworth Rods, Pistons and bearings, and ARP Studs. Things to take special notes on are: Stock heads, Stock Cams, OEM head gaskets, OEM TGV housings in place and functioning and stock fuel rails with PERRIN Stumble fix installed.We use 92 octane fuel here in Oregon, but like any big power car running on pump gas, we run 50/50 methanol. The kit is setup to flow about 800cc’s per minute of methanol/water.

Tuning duties on this beast are controlled by a Cosworth ECPro standalone ECU. An Innovate Wide Band is integrated into the ECU as well as a gauge so i can visually see AFR as well as log it accurately. That along with a Omnipower 4 bar plug and play MAP sensor, so i am able to run the car to higher boost pressures. This part is a must for any turbo kit customer!

Setup: Dyno we are using is our awesome Dynapack Dyno. Car is setup to run in 4th gear, starting at 2000 RPM and ending at 6800RPM. We use a settle time of 4 seconds, which means, the dyno holds the RPMS at 2000RPM for 4 seconds before the run starts. During this 4 seconds, we have the car at 100% throttle for about 2-3 seconds. The fans we use are not super crazy fans that flow 100MPH wind, but each fan flows exactly 28MPH (measured with our wind meter) and both are aimed at (not on) the intercooler). This doesn’t provide perfect airflow to the intercooler compared to to driving on the street, but it does provide very accurate and repeatable results and if anything lower HP that you may see on the road.

All runs were done with the ECU reading about 30C intake temps, and this was very consistent. The dyno temp measured 58-60F. The dyno runs were done with about the same amount of time between them as well as coolant temps were always at 90C. The idea is we did it consistently to eliminate as many variables as possible.

Now with all that out of the way its time for the good stuff.

Garrett GT vs. GTX

If you do not know, this whole test is the GT3076R with a .82ar housing compared to the GTX3076R with the .82ar housing. We will leave out the other GTX turbos for now as well as the .63ar housings. I have really good results on the GT3076r.63 comparing it to a .82 that was swapped out and dynoed in about 1 hour. Its about 300RPM quicker spooling and that should be good enough to give you an idea how the GTX with .63 will perform in the spool department.

Car was previously tuned at 1.2bar, 1.5bar, and 1.7bar of boost with the GT3076R w/.82. The tune was not pushed to the limits by any means, meaning AFR target was .80-.79 Lambda (11.76-11.6AFR) running 50/50 meth. I did do runs previously at .81- .82 Lamda 11.9-12.0 and it was very happy, but added fuel for safety. Timing could have been bumped up about 2 degrees more as I found it could run that also. Either way, we re-dynoed the car with the previous tune (super safe) and did NO tuning between runs. I ran, 1.2, 1.5bar, and then 1.7 bar with just twisting the SI drive button. AFR’s were perfect, engine noise low, and WGDC was right where I left it. I did do a 1.9bar run and AFR’s were the same .79-.80 lambdo with no knock. I did this because i knew that some guys would be asking for a big power run. Below are the results overlaid with the GTX results.

Next up was time to swap the turbo. As you can see from the NASIOC posts I made with my iPhone, we started the swap and in less than 1hour it was back up and running. I did have help doing this to make it go as fast as possible.

1.2Bar of boost…

First run I was crossing my fingers, as I left the same tune in place. At 1.2 bar (17.4psi) of boost I was impressed with the response as it was almost exactly the same! I did a few hot and cold runs(Heat in the header is what I am referring to) and after comparing them to the GT3076R runs we just did, the GTX was maybe 50RPM laggier. No one will notice this! I am pretty excited as even at this lower boost levels, it gained power! 15WHP more makes it 370WHP which is very good for low boost!

Now at these boost levels, the GTX compressor wheel isn’t really being utilized as it will be at higher PR’s. The GTX wheel, according to Garrett, is more efficient by about 6% at redline, which means cooler charge temps. Typically this means denser air, and means if not accounted for that the AFR will be leaner. I only found the AFR to be leaner by a microscopic amount. This is something only visible using some of the Cosworth toolbox tools to see the average change. The AFR was leaner by .01 Lambda(.15AFR) showing its is more efficient!

The Cosworth ECU has closed loop boost control so it hits my target boost every run. This keeps it very consistent and eliminates some variables. The GTX on all runs needed about 2% more Wastegate Duty Cycle(WGDC). This shows the turbine needs a tiny bit more engery to spool the same. The Cosworth ECU also has a great visual way to see engine noise and using this to compare both turbos, its almost exactly the same. For the next few examples, I will make sure we cover WGDC, AFR, engine noise and of course power.

Again, keep in mind, ZERO tuning was done from the GT to the GTX at this boost level.

1.5Bar of boost….

With the twist of the I-drive we are now running 1.5 bar (21.75psi). Just like we saw at the 1.2 bar level, we gained power! Another 15WHP over the GT at this level is pretty good, again for no tuning. This is where I feel that 75% of our turbo kit customers fall into. It’s that boost range that works ok with 91 octane and makes plenty of power to get you in trouble! No one would be disappointed with 430 WHP and 430 ft-lbs of TQ! I also think that this is what you would see on pump fuel setups.

During these runs the AFR was again leaner compared to the GT turbo, this time it was just under .01Lambda (.15AFR), but at redline it was just over .01 Lambda. Indicating cooler denser air and more efficient turbo as expected. On the dyno the AFR changes were not something we could see at all. This could be due to the wideband 02 sensor being located at the tailpipe versus my Innovate sensor is in the downpipe where its more accurate and faster. Engine noise this time around was slightly quieter.

Here is a quick shot the Pi ToolBox software that is what the Cosworth ECU uses. By far this is the most powerfuldatalogging software out there. I can overlay two runs by offsetting the time (or a value in the data) and compare runs exactly. You can see the engine noise graph at the bottom and start to see the GTX run (in green) and how the engine noise is quieter. This is just one of the many veiws i have setup to tune with.

1.7bar of boost….

Now we are starting to get to the sweet spot of the turbo. This time we are seeing 15-20WHP gain over the GT turbo. Again NO tuning is done but we see the same thing where, AFR is .01Lamba leaner, engine noise this time is about the same average. Making almost 470WHP and 470ft-lbs of TQ is very impressive for what this is. While this may only represent 20% of our turbo kit customers out there, who wouldn’t want to take their existing 440WHP car to 470 with a simple bolt on part. Ok maybe not simple, but its not that hard.

1.9 bar of boost.

Ok so this is not normal and doesn’t represent what customers normally do, but I had to push just a little. The 1.9bar (27.55psi) run on the GT3076R made about 450WHP. This is what we tell customers the cap is for this turbo. I have see more but its when customers really push to 30-32psi of boost(which tapers down at redline). But this is a lot of stress on a Suby engine! This is the only time I did tuning on the engine, and it was only fuel related. This higher boost level is where the the turbo starts to kick butt. Initial runs were showing 20WHP gain, but with only a minor tweak to the AFR curve, we saw 480WHP! While this was kind of a glory run, the engine noise was quieter (just barely), and the engine seemed very happy. Realistically customers that have any kind of wheel HP over 450, it becomes somewhat of a blur as the car starts to become scary fast. But either way, if we can now say that 480WHP is the cap for this turbo……sweet!

From all this it goes to show that the GTX turbo works and if tuned for, there is at least 20WHP to be gained. Why does it work, simple its more efficient, and it will do higher PR’s. The PR(pressure ratio) is not really a Subaru thing as they typically don’t get pushed past 30psi very ofter, but that efficiency thing is what makes this a great option. Here is the GT turbo and GTX Turbo compressor map overlaid with air flow from a 2.5L engine.

The graphs show air flow for a 2.5L engine plotted similar to the boost response found on the GT or GTX 3076R turbo. As you can see the plots really runs off the map on the GT compressor map at higher boost/airflow levels. The GTX really fits this engine better!

Could I have made more power? For sure! I think the GTX could have made more power for sure had I turned up the boost a bit more and really tuned the AFR and Timing, I could have hit 500WHP. But pushing 30psi to do so is a lot of stress on a Subaru engine (big bore/short rod issue). This is where a GT or GTX3582R would come into play. It can make 500WHP with a few PSI less, and blow way past the 500WHP barrier. I choose not to as this car is driven everyday and 30psi on the street is just stupid! I know, so is 25psi, but still…..

With speculation of this turbo acting like a GT3582R, why DIDN’T it make tons more power, well I think that is a simple answer. While the GTX3076R flows like a GT35R, the GT35R has a much larger exhaust wheel and there for has much less back pressure as well as more potential to flow more air. So while the GTX3076R compressor wheel flows enough for tons of power, the GT35R turbine wheel needs to be in place to push past the 500WHP mark.

So the question is, “Is the additional cost worth it?” Looking at the standard retail price for a Garrett GT3076R vs a GTX3076R, the GTX is only $230-$250 more. So in this case, I say yes! People spend that on crank pulley plus installation! In regards to the GT3582R vs GTX3582R the retail price difference is $700-ish. Without any proof (yet) the additional $700 is at least worth 20WHP over the other. Again, look at TGV housings and installation cost.Someone could easily spend $700 for housings/modification and installation. So with out proof that it makes any power, I say yes!

Question, “When can I get a PERRIN kit with a GTX turbo?”.
Answer, they are available now, so…!

Final comments:

Your welcome Garrett……

One of the features Garret proclaims is quieter operation. After my first minute driving the car, i would absolutley agree! Its about half as loud as the old one. There is no way cops will here your turbo screaming from a couple blocks away!

I expect tons of questions, start asking! Email me, IM me, call me, i am here!

Back on the dyno again finally. I was pretty excited to see what kind of power this GTX3582R was going to make. I installed it with the .63AR housing as this has been becoming the more popular choice lately. My initial impressions on the street were that it’s a little laggier, but still pretty snappy. Also I found that on the street it “felt” like it made more power. So when I put it on the dyno my plans were to do it a little different and start with GTX3582R w/.63 first then go to the GT3582R w/.63. Then do the same boost levels, AFR levels, timing and same 7000 redline.To recap, car has the exact same parts as before, all our normal parts, plus our Meth injection kit, Cosworth ECU, and stock TGV housings. Goal is to run 1.2bar, 1.5bar, 1.7bar, and 1.9bar all at .79-ish lambda.First run at 1.2 bar was exactly the same power, exactly the same everything except laggier. At these boost levels it was consistently 400RPM laggier. Here is a graph of some runs. This shows the 1.5bar levels of the GTX3076R and the GTX3582R. you can see that on a typical run its 500RPM slower, but when quick runs are done the split is more like 350RPM.Moving on to 1.5 bar then 1.7 bar I found the exact same thing! Only difference was i added a bit more fuel (no power change). I was really wondering when this larger more efficient compressor wheel was going to start coming into play. I felt cheated a bit so I started tuning the 1.7 bar range. I added some timing, leaned it out, and basically the changes were not worth anything, maybe 5WHP. I put the changes back and hoped that 1.9 bar would show some real gains.

So one last ditch effort, I ran it at at 1.9 bar and guess what! NOTHING!! It made the exact same power as the GTX3076R in all instances and since it was laggier, it made less peak TQ.

You can see here the raw data runs and how they were making the same power. At these boost levels i also did some tuning and found that timing was much more on the edge. Adding a degree or half neted in a large change to engine noise. Still no knock, but again, the 5HP wasn’t really worth it to make it that much on the edge. I did see evidence that the compressor was more efficient as i was needing to add more fuel, but not tons.

Here is a nother few runs, showing the GTX3076R at 1.5bar of boost and the GTX3582R at 1.5bar of boost. Its easy to see what turbo is going to be the next popular turbo from this.

The question is why? I am sure there is a bit of power to be gained with the TGV’s being deleted (Proving this soon as well), and potentially there is some power to be gained with bigger cams, but realistically it’s the turbine housing. In the past with GT turbos, we never really found the flow limit of the turbine housings. In this case we did. Now looking at the Turbine housing flow charts we can see why we hit this limit.

You can see how a 30R.82 flows about 23lbs/min under those conditions and as the turbine pressure raises it hit a wall. Basically adding more exhaust pressure will not do anything for the ultimate flow of the engine. On the 35R turbine map the .63AR housing hits a similar wall at 23lbs/min. This is why at the same boost levels as the 30R the engine wasn’t flowing more air making more HP. But if we step up to the .82 there is an instant 5lbw/min of air flow gained from the turbine wheel. 5lbs/min is 50 engine HP worth of airflow so this should net close to 50 more Wheel HP. But of course at the expense of lag. In past tests .82 GT3582R would spool around 4500 RPM and with the GTX i think it will be the same.

In the past we would say that when pushed the GT30R w/.63 made about, 400WHP, then .82 added 50WHP to that number, then a GT35R w/.63 added another 50 ish and then the .82 added even more. But with the case of the GTX3076R it really does fit a broader range of HP without sacrificing spool. The GTX3076R w/.82 AR now covers 2 turbos In the end your choice of turbos are going to be GTX3076R w/.63, or GTX3076r w/.82, or GTX3582r w/82.

From this I can 100% conclude that the GTX3582R with a .63 housing is NOT the turbo to buy. A much better choice is the GTX3076R with .82 housing. Its cheaper and spools quicker. From this I can also conclude that a GT3582R with .63 housing is also not a good choice as the GTX3076R is better, but it does cost a bit more. The only thing left on the table is GTX3582R with .82 ar exhaust housing test. If there was one on the shelf i might have stolen it for this test, but i think its going to have to wait a week. Sorry!

If people are still wondering are the GTX turbos worse in any way performance wise. I am pretty confident in saying not at all. The only issue they have is they cost more. But overall when looking at a complete turbo kit or a complete car build, its not that much overall.

Originally Posted by jkelz25 View Post
any results on that gtx35 yett??

I know, i know, i have completely neglected this thread last week. Sorry, i was setting up the web pages and things for the turbo kits. We also added a new Tuner Turbo kit, which is everything minus turbo and wastegate. We get about 2 calls a week about this asking if we can sell a kit like this so we are!

A few pages back i said this 35R .82ar exhaust housing flows about 50more HP than the .63ar housing so i should be seeing about 50HP with just bolting this on. It wasn’t too far off from that at higher RPMS!

Here is a comparison of the GTX3076R w/.63 vs .82 and the GTX3582R w/.63 vs .82. On the street the GTX3582R w/.82 is very laggy off boost. Its a huge difference!

Onto the fun stuff. Here is the GTX3582R w/.82 housing at different boost levels. It does make more power than the GTX3076R but not tons and tons more. I think that if i had reved the engine 8K we would see the GTX3582R start to show its worth. At 30psi, the 2.5L is needing about 70lbs-min of air and going up to 8000 adds 10lbs-min more. That is where the GTX3076 falls off and the GTX3582R would really show some gains.

The question is, “Is it worth going to the .82 over the .63 GTX3582r?” I would say for sure, if you are wanting more power and are going to rev the engine high. Here is a graph showing the .63 runs versus the .82 runs. Like all other runs, i did no tuning to increase power, just to bring the AFRs back in check. What i found was i needed more fuel at the higher RPM’s which is expected with a more efficient turbo. What i notice on the road is the car is laggy, then BAM, power, and once on boost, its a very linear feel all the way to redline. There is no drop in power and it really makes me want to rev the car higher and higher, but i am not….

My personal choice after all is said and done… GTX3076R with .82ar. Check out the difference. And what you can’t see on the graphs is the off boost power. Personally if i was limiting my redline to 7000 RPM, then i would loose 30WHP to get the better response and fun factor of the smaller turbo.

Here is another comparison of some turbos. I couldn’t overlay the GTX3582R w/.82 without doing some free hand drawing. But check out at 4000RPM and where the TQ is on all these as well as the above graphs. Keep in mind these are not all GTX turbos, but what i am showing is the response and TQ from the GT or GTX 3076R and the GT or GTX3582R with different housings.

At 3500RPM……..

-3076R w/.63 hits 340ft-lbs of TQ

-3076R w/.82 hits 280ft-lbs of TQ

-3582R w/.63 hits 240ft-lbs of TQ

-3582R w/.82 hits 220ft-lbs of TQ

AT 4000RPM……

-3076R w/.63 hits 420ft-lbs of TQ

-3076R w/.82 hits 420ft-lbs of TQ

-3582R w/.63 hits 320ft-lbs of TQ

-3582R w/.82 hits 270ft-lbs of TQ

That is all you ever really needed to know about the GTX turbo and how it compares to the GT stuff.  Overall for a couple hundred extra bucks you get more HP, and or more potential for more HP.  That seem cheap compared to some parts you buy that only give 10WHP.

 If you didn’t get to read all of Part 1, check it out HERE

 Posted by on January 5, 2011 Dyno Test & Tune Tagged with: , , , , ,
Dec 202010

I am sure everyone has seen the new info about the new Garrett GTX turbos and maybe seen the generic pics Garrett supplied to the media, but here are some up close and personal pics! Sorry for the somewhat less professional pics taken on my desk, but i was so excited when they showed up that i didn’t want to wait!

Pictured above is the GT3071R, GT3076R, GTX3076R, GT3582R and GTX3582R. Its easy to see the billet wheels from this angle and size of them really stands out.

You can see the compressor housings are the same design but machined to fit the slightly larger GTX wheel. Its not just the ID of the housing but also the shape of the curve that fits the compressor wheel. They still have that annoying/ugly and not smooth lip from the surge port transition to the ID.

Garrett provides this info on the compressor wheel sizes, but what they don’t say is what the actual OD of the wheel is!

Turbo______ Inducer____Exducer___Trim __AR
GT3071R_____ 53.1mm____ 71.0mm____ 56___ 0.50
GTX3071R____ 54.1mm____ 71.4mm____ 58___ 0.60
GT3076R_____ 57.0mm____ 76.2mm____ 56___ 0.60
GTX3076R____ 58.0mm____ 76.6mm____ 58___ 0.60

The GTX wheels use “New Aero” but they do not mention the extended tips of the wheel as a feature. Probably because BW uses this feature. Its a greats simple way to get a little more air flow from a compressor wheel

The Exducer on the GTX3071R is 73.45mm (2.05mm bigger than claimed) and the exducer on the GTX3076R is 78.7mm (2.1mm bigger than claimed)


Taking a look at the compressor maps you can see that now customers looking to make 400WHP may opt for the faster spooling GTX3071R instead of the GT3076R. The GTX3076R looks like a 35R now and as long as it still spools fast, it may be a great option for those torn between the two sizes.

The GT3582R pictured is the common non-ported shroud (which has an optional ported shroud), compared to the GTX which only comes with the ported shroud.

Garrett Provides this info:

Turbo______ Inducer____Exducer___Trim __AR
GT3582R_____ 61.4mm____ 82.0mm____ 56___ 0.70
GTX3582R____ 62.5mm____ 82.5mm____ 58___ 0.70

Again they don’t mention the extended tip size, but the GTX3582R measures 84.7mm, which is 2.2mm bigger than claimed.

Looking at the compressor maps you can see, just like the other turbos that now customers thinking of doing a GT4088R, now might consider the GTX3582R. Its almost 100 engine HP more than the old one! Again it all depends on when it spools up.

The full 11 blade compressor wheel is very nice looking, but does it work is the question! Garretts info says:
Forged, fully-machined compressor wheel featuring next-generation GTX aerodynamics * Compressor wheel is 11 full-blade design.

As i mentioned before they say nothing about the extended tips! You can see above the side profile showing the tips and how they protrude out from the wheel.

I know this is not proven power, but look for results in Part 2.


 Posted by on December 20, 2010 Dyno Test & Tune, First Look Tagged with: , , , , , ,
Aug 252010




Here is an example of a 2009 MINI Cooper JCW with ALTA Performance Stage 1 Tune


What can the ALTA AccessPORT Maps do for me??

Besides the regular things like changing boost and timing to make more power, below are some things we change that other tuners can not. We feel this really gives us the advantage over other tuners and provides you with the best maps possible.

-We can raise the rev limit.

Others can do this but there is one thing that they don’t fix, the “Over-Rev Recorder”.  Many Euro cars have this function that when the engine RPM exceeds XXXXRPM it will record all the data at that moment and save it deep in the ECU.  All the turbo Mini’s have an Over-Rev Recorder set just above stock redline.  So if a tuner bumps up your redline, and doesn’t change this, this could lead to a voided warranty.  When we change the redline, we also bump the Over-Rev Recorder up to keep BMW happy.


-We can change the Sport Button to make more power.

This is something that people have wanted for years! A sport button should be sporty, not just heavier steering and a more annoying throttle!  We can make the Sport button produce more or less power than the normal mode. We can also manipulate the throttle so its not at 100% throttle at 50% pedal. We can make the throttle much more linear which is great for cars with turbo back exhausts installed or other super responsive setups.


-We make the Air Fuel Ratio richer.

We are able to change the target Air Fuel Ratios to a much safer level for high boost and high horsepower applications.  In stock form the engine runs very lean under high load.  Because these engines are Direct Injection engines it allows them to run like this, but this is very dangerous for extended periods of time.  We richen up the Air Fuel Ratio to levels that are safer and will allow for more power!   We mention this somewhat obvious feature as some tuners are not able to change the Air fuel ratio to much different than stock.


-EGT Limits raised

The Mini ECU uses a calculated EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) to determine when to change from a super lean 14.7 Air fuel ratio to its safety backup fueling map.   Believe it or not, your engine always hits this EGT limit around 3000-4000 rpm under full throttle after a couple of full throttle runs.  We raise this limit and change the entire Air Fuel Ratio curve to better suite a car with high horsepower and torque.

-We can raise the boost limit.

Important on JCW as it likes to run more than 21psi!  All our JCW tunes have this bumped up to 24psi.

-Raising the Speed limit

While its not legal anywhere to go above 100MPH, we bump the stock Speed limit up to 190MPH to ensure you never hit the stock limit of 150MPH

-Torque limits.

The ECU uses Torque to control many things on the engine.  There are many limits that hold back the ability to make power beyond just a few extra horsepower and we have the ability to allow full torque from your engine.  Some tuners say they reduce traction limits by 15%, but this really is just bumping up the torque limit. This has no effect on traction control it only effects overall power and potential for more power. We bump this up to a point where there is no limit to how much torque is being applied!


-Variable Cam Timing(VANOS)

We are able to change the cam timing angles to provide even better turbo spool up.  We have full control over the Intake Cam angle, which can provide roughly 200 RPM quicker spool and smoother power delivery across the RPM band.


-Ignition timing vs Air temp limits

The stock mapping is very very aggressive and when temp raise even slightly above normal, you are losing power. We map this map much more realistic which makes power much more consistent while still keeping the safety factors in place for extreme conditions hot or cold.

-Launch Control

A very fun feature if you plan on doing drag racing.  We can set this RPM limit (for when the car isn’t moving) and it makes for consistent launches everytime.  This RPM limiter does not build boost and it not hard on your engine in anyway. The way it works is purely throttle based.








One more thing to keep in mind for all of NAM.  We own our test cars!  Its an amazing concept i know!  We sadly sold our 07 MCS a short time ago, so now we only have 3 Minis (not including a GP) all of which are tuned, testing beat on, parts installed over and over again.  We don’t have to rely on barrowing cars from customers to test parts.  We also don’t learn how to tune ECU’s on customer cars!   Since we have our own dyno, we can test things whenever we want. We don’t need to schedule anything with another shop. This allows us to tune accuratley, faster, and grasp concepts surrounding the ECU and engine. Combined all that together and that is what makes us tuner.






Find all of the latest AccessPORT Data Monitors to use with DataLogging. Data Monitors in bold indicate a default logging value.


Standard Metric Metric w/AFR
Data Channel Units Units Units
Battery Volt. V V V
Vehicle Speed mph kph kph
Cal. Gear Gear Gear Gear
MAF Airflow Airflow Airflow
Time Period, MAF µs µs µs
At Idle on/off on/off on/off
TPS Act. % % %
TPS Internal % % %
Baro Pressure % % %
Req. Boost PSI kPA kPA
Bst. Mult. Adapt
Boost Ctrl Act. on/off on/off on/off
BPV Act. on/off on/off on/off
WGDC % % %
Boost PID Corr.
Timing CA ° ° °
Torque NM NM NM
ECT °F °C °C
Oil Temp. °F °C °C
ECU Temp. °F °C °C
Amb. Temp. °F °C °C
Cam. Ang. Req. CA CA CA
Cam Angle CA CA CA
Fuel Pressure MPa MPa MPa
Fuel Pres. Reg. MPa MPa MPa
Lam. Setpoint AFR λ AFR
Lambda AFR λ AFR
Lambda Act. on/off on/off on/off
O2 Sen1 V V V
O2 Sen2 V V V
Knock Flags
Cyl1 Knock V V V V
Cyl2 Knock V V V V
Cyl3 Knock V V V V
Cyl4 Knock V
Boost PSI kPA kPA
Req. Bst Delta PSI kPA kPA
Lambda Model
Intake Mani. Temp °F °C °C
Load Per Cyl. Load Load Load
Load Requested Load kPA kPA
Torque Requested % % %
Timing Conv. Div. Factor Factor Factor
Torque Efficiency Factor Factor Factor
Timing Cyl. 1 ° ° °
Timing Cyl. 3 ° ° °
Timing Cyl. 4 ° ° °
Timing Cyl. 2 ° ° °


Change Map:
Reflash Yes
Change Map Time 42s
Show Current Map:
Reflash Yes
Save Stock Rom Yes
Total Install Time Dump: 1m 18s
Flash: 39s
Live Data Yes
Data Log Yes
Set Rev Warning Yes
Set Live Data List Yes
Set Data Log List Yes
Reset Live List Yes
Reset Log List Yes
Reset ECU Yes
Read Codes Yes
Clear Codes Yes
Firmware Yes
Dongle Info Yes
Part Number Yes
Serial Yes
Installation State Yes
Vehicle Yes
English Yes
French Limited
German Limited
Greek Limited
Japanese Limited
Spanish Limited
Metric Yes
Standard Yes
Metric w/ AFR Yes
Restore saved ROM Yes






 Posted by on August 25, 2010 Dyno Test & Tune, First Look, MINI Only Tagged with: , , ,
Aug 102010

Cold Air Intake System Design and Testing

Our intake system started out simple using a combination of silicon steel and some other sheet metal parts.  In dealing with other cars with MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors we knew it was important to keep diameters and orientation of the sensor similar to stock.  Looking to make the intake the best we could, and knowing customers would be wanting a true cold air intake we starting working toward that goal. But we quickly found that there wasn’t an easy way, or a cost effective way to make a true cold air intake.  Since there was a nice scoop on the Cooper S we thought maybe we could use this to feed cold air to out intake.  So before we got too far we went to the dyno and started testing.

Our initial test of the intake system was done with the OEM hood scoop left in place.  So we did 3 quick runs with the scoop on and 4 quick runs with the scoop off.  In order to determine if the scoop is going to work to feed our intake with cold air, we setup temperature probes all over the car and hooked them to our data logging system.  We mounted probes behind the filter (testing the air temp the filter would see), one in the scoop for ambient temp, one pre intercooler and one post intercooler.  With the hood scoop plug in place, the filter temps constantly climbed.  In 3 quick (10 second interval) runs, the temps at the filter rose to 150 degrees and NO Horsepower was gained.  With the scoop plug removed, an instant 30F drop occurred!  After 4 runs the temps continued to drop to about 10F over ambient temp which is the same kind of temps found in most typical cold air intakes.  This cooler air temp also showed a nice change in Wheel HP and Torque.  The 10HP gain was somewhat expected with the cooler temps and also the high flow nature of the air filter.


Scoop removed makes a difference

This back to back run shows with the OEM scoop plug in and with it removed.  This plays a key roll in making the ALTA Cold Air Intake a “cold air intake”


Final horsepower gains 10WHP!

This back to back run shows with the OEM scoop plug removed of course!  We found 10WHP on a stock tuned 07 Cooper S.  Besides the HP, it makes a bunch of cool new sounds!

So did we need to make the intake any different than our prototype and or add a crazy hood scoop to make it more like a typical cold air intake? NO!  With all this great data, it was easy to make the decision to stay away from a more complicated, more expensive “Cold Air” type design.  There was no need to make it more complicated knowing that we could provide ample fresh air to the filter with just removal of the scoop!

tech_intake_r56intakediagram copy

More and More Dyno Results

After our initial test on a completely stock 07+ Cooper S, we knew that we would find similar if not better gains on a Cooper S with an exhaust system installed.  with our 3″ Turbo-back exhaust installed, we were seeing the bulk of the gains at higher RPM, but still close to 10WHP. Below is the graph showing our averaged gains.


Results with turbo back exhaust

You can see there is a large gain at lower RPM, but some of this was due to the car running 2psi more boost there. The boost from there on up was the same as the previous run.  This shows that the OEM intake is still a restriction at the upper RPM’s with a turboback exhaust installed.

JCW Cold Air Intake Testing


Stock JCW with ALTA Intake installed

With many many tests performed on our JCW, we had to do a few intake tests to see if we would see the same HP gains as we do on the  Cooper S.  On these cars Mini installed a scoop with a few holes in it. While it is better than the old car its still important to remove this scoop to ensure you get maximum air flow to your ALTA intake.


Stock JCW with ALTA Intake installed

Just as we had shown on the Cooper S, 10 or so Wheel HP was had with the intake installed on a JCW!  Also just as we had shown on the Cooper S. car, the bulk of the power is from 5000 on up which is similar to what we see on this car!   One more test we did was the same JCW but with our larger Intercooler installed. Again, the only thing changed between runs was the OEM intake for the ALTA intake.

 Update August 6, 2012

The is a test we did recently to prove that our cold air intake does make a difference in all stages of power. As you see above, we have lots of graphs that show gains on stock cars and tuned cars, but this was a test that we did backwards. We took our 2012 JCW, installed an AccessPORT, ALTA FMIC,  ALTA Cold Air Intake, and our JCW catback (leaves stock downpipe). We did some tweaking to the map to get a bit more HP and ended with 241 WHP and 276ft-lbs of TQ you see below on the blue line.  This is pretty common for a Stage 3 type setup. We then installed a stock air box with new filter and dynoed the car again. The green line shows the results.

Big surprise, it lost HP!!! Of course it will, the stock intake is a restriction, and at this power level you can really see where this comes into play. Almost 20 WHP is lost at 6800, that is very noticeable and for sure going to kill some of the fun in your Mini. This was a great test and one of the first times we went backwards to prove a part.


This simple design allows us to make a cost effective, high flowing intake system that you see today.  To this day, it’s the most popular intake for your 07+ Mini cooper and most importantly, the only intake proven to make HP!  To this day our competitors push that our intake is not a true cold air but with proof like this how can they really argue!



 Posted by on August 10, 2010 Dyno Test & Tune, MINI Only, Part Design & Tech Tagged with: , , , , ,
Aug 092010

As with many of our ALTA products we start out simple and build upon them until they meet our customers’ demands and or our own internal goals.  With any new vehicle we start with the things we know customer are going to want. The obvious things like exhaust, swaybars and of course the intake!  When the first 07+ Cooper S was release we started with the intake system first to see what we could gain from it.

The first thing we start with is making a high flow replacement drop in air filter. Typically we just replicate the stock part but of course use foam as our media.  Typically this results in a little more HP but mainly the benefit is re-usability.    When looking at the 07+ Cooper S we found we had the ability to actually go beyond it like the stock part.


Thinner than OEM for more flow

The lower portion of the OEM filter is very tall making for very little room for air to travel across the entire filter and making for less overall volume in the air box.  We saw huge room for improvement in this filter by making it slightly offset and slightly thinner.  This simple change allows for more air to be drawn across the entire filter.  This makes the filter more useful and collecting dirt while opening up the door for higher flow rates.  Then add to that the high flow nature of our foam media and you get a HP and a a filter that can be reused over and over again!

From the diagram you can see how much thicker the OEM filter is and how far it hangs down.  The ALTA filter provides roughly 2 times the volume of air under the filter.  Dyno results will follow very soon!  Installation of this filter can be done in 5 minutes of work!



The ALTA Drop in filter makes a few extra HP but where it really shines is when it gets dirty.  OEM and K&N filters get clogged the more dirt gets in them and loose horsepower.  The ALTA Foam media keeps flowing even after its full of dirt providing you with maximum horsepower between filter servicing.

HP results for all this work was ok in that we see a decent gain in midrange HP.  On the dyno we consistently saw about 4 WHP.  Overall the ALTA panel filter fits the needs of the typical customer wanting a little more performance with out having to purchase expensive OEM filters over the life of the car.  But we knew for the more performance oriented customer we would need something more!  A complete Cold Air intake was going to be what our Mini customers are going to want.

 Posted by on August 9, 2010 Dyno Test & Tune, MINI Only, Part Design & Tech Tagged with: , , ,
Jul 102010

Evolution of the ALTA R56 Intercooler

ALTA was the first to bring you a larger front mounted intercooler for your R56 and JCW, we were the first to bring you proven dyno performance, we were the first to being you solid temperature data, and the first R56 to break the 280WHP mark with our intercooler, proving our intercooler works for all levels of cars. In the rest of this article you will read about how we came up with our design and our testing/dyno proving along the way.


OEM Construction

When we first picked up our R56 we were very excited to see how small and crappy the OEM intercooler was. Like most low HP turbocharged cars it came with an intercooler that just barely does the job. We knew that the R56 would be a great tuner car and that this OEM intercooler would be a huge hold up so we had to make a bigger and better one!

There are few flaws the OEM intercooler has. It’s really small, about 40% of the intercooler is blocked by the bumper from ambient airflow and lastly is it’s tube and fin type core.  We knew we could make a better intercooler as the flaws were easy to fix and Mini gave us a huge bumper opening to fill! You can see in this cross section of the front of the R56, how the bottom half of the intercooler is not getting direct airflow.  While this does an OK job on a stock R56 or JCW, its not good enough for any performance oriented Mini.


The OEM intercooler is a tube and fin type of core. This is typical of all OEM type intercoolers because this method is faster and cheaper to make.  In this example you can see the tubes and how they stick up.  You can also see how small the tubes are and the very dense fins. This creates a very restrictive core that does an ok job of cooling.



ALTA FMIC Construction

When designing intercoolers there are many important things to consider, pressure drop (the loss of boost through the intercooler), and how well the intercooler cools the air.   For a given size of intercooler, these two are generally a balancing act making one that cools better versus flows more.  Another thing is make it as big as possible.  As a starting point the bigger it is the better chance you have in making a core that cools better has less pressure drop. Contrary to what forum followers say, bigger isn’t what causes a pressure drop, its cross section and fin counts, but that is a whole other story.  Using this simple rule of make it big, and with what we know about the ECU and how it deals with air temps, we leaned toward the cooling side of things rather that outright flow.

After playing with a couple of fatter, shorter designs (similar to the OEM but deeper) we found we could make a bigger intercooler by going thinner!   Seeing that Mini gave us this great big opening in the bumper to fill, we did just that.  In order to do this we made a minor compromise requiring some trimming of the plastic behind the bumper. This allowed us to make the intercooler wider by almost 3 inches, which would perfectly fill the bumper opening.  Using this initial design we found our older R53 intercooler cores were pretty close!  So we stuck a couple together and BAM! we had an intercooler to test out! (if you want to see a picture of this, check out the top picture here. Its ugly but it worked!)



Intercooler Types

This prototype and final design core uses the same basic type of core known as bar and plate.  There are 2 main types of cores, Bar and Plate, and Tube and Fin(OEM Type).  While both do very similar jobs, they are very different cores.  Bar and Plate cores are constructed using thin plates, and aluminum bars (extrusions) with fins placed in between all the parts. Its basically a big sandwich of plates, fins and bars.  The thickness of each layer, and the density of fins can be changed to create the optimum pressure drop and cooling ability.  These are then baked in a vacuum, which brazes all the parts together, creating an intercooler core!  While there are more parts, and more labor involved with building this type of core, they produce the best flowing and most solid type of core.

In this close up shot you can see how smoother and flatter the bar and plate charge side is. This makes for smoother airflow through the core.  You can also see the construction of the core and all its pieces that go into making it. To compare this core consists of 90 parts where a tube and fin of the same has 31.



Tube and Fin cores are limited to their charge side thickness due to their construction.  They are constructed using thin plates, and thin extruded tubes. Between each of these tubes, fins are placed and brazed together in an oven. The picture below shows the difference in cores. The downside is the charge side of the core cannot be as wide as a bar and plate, creating a smaller cross section for air to the charge air to pass through.  They also are not very strong against rocks and debris because the tubes are very thin. Their only benefit is they are light weight.

This clearly shows one of the largest flaws, the charge tube sticking out of the header plate.  The tubes sticking up create a large nasty corner that is not good for airflow.  To make up for this, the charge tubes have to be very open, which then sacrifices its cooling effects.


Here is a clear veiw of 2 of the same size cores, but one bar and plate and the other tube and fin.  You can see how they are completely different in almost all aspects.






This is the dyno result of the prototype core we made.  While being ugly and with some pretty rough endtanks, we were surprised how well it work, and we were looking forward to even better results when we have a proper one done.



As shown before with our initial testing (found here in a thread on NAM), the intercooler can make a big difference in power with the stock ECU tuning.  Now add your custom ECU tuning, more boost, and maybe even a bigger turbo, and the intercooler becomes a vital part to keeping your engine making safe big power. The below graph shows our initial testing of our prototype intercooler which just a small example of things to come.

This graph shows our more restrictive cobbled together prototype core, we test on a car with only a turboback exhaust installed. While not optimum it created a 5-10 WHP gain and 10-20ft-lbs of torque gain.  This made a very noticeable difference in how the car accelerated and also how repeatable the runs were. With a proper built core and cast aluminum entanks we knew there was more to be had.

Our Prototype core showed a huge improvement over the stock core, by dropping the intercooler outlet temps as much as 40 degrees F over the stock intercooler. The prototype core we measured roughly 3PSI of pressure drop across the core, where the stock one was around 2psi.  To compare, a typical properly designed core is around 1psi of drop.  Pressure drop is always going to be there, but the higher it is the harder the turbo has to work and that makes for a loss in power because the turbo may become less efficient.  So 3psi is a lot and you think it would cause a loss in power, but the above proves that the air temp change is part of why it gains power.


Best Tool in the Shop, the Dynapack Dyno!

We would not be here and be able to provide our customers with hard proof something works.  Also because we are not held captive by “renting a dyno” we can do tests over and over again, to make 100% sure the part works.


With initial testing done, it was to the drawing board to create the final core design and cast aluminum endtanks.  Using special CFD software we were able to design and test a few cores in the virtual world before we even did any realworld testing.  Since we don’t use off the shelf cores like many companies do, we were able to create an intercooler exactly the way we wanted it by tweaking the fin design, number of fins per inch and how many and the size of rows.  This allowed us to quickly make an intercooler with minimal pressure drop and very efficient at cooling the hot air coming out of the turbo.  Using CFD software along with our real world testing we were able to deliver the first larger front mounted intercooler for the Mini R56.  And to this day the only proven Intercooler for your Mini!




Prototype vs. Final Design

In the below test, we ran the prototype intercooler and final design back to back. Just like we expected to see, even more wheel HP!  This test was done on our first R56 which at the time had a turbo back exhaust with 2 cats, and an intake system installed.  The ECU programming was stock, so stock boost levels also!  Its hard to compare this test to the one done previously with the prototype core as it was done on a completely different time period and much cooler out. Either way, our prototype made more HP than stock, and the production intercooler made more HP than our prototype. Check out the dyno graphs below!




Why does the ALTA intercooler make more power than the stock one?? The biggest one is its cools the air better than the stock intercooler.  While pressure drop is a benefit, its not such a huge difference because the turbo can run more boost very efficiently with no detrimental effects.  The R56 reacts better to cooler charge temps because cooler charge temps allows for higher boost, and it helps control detonation/knock under heavy loads.  The ECU is constantly monitoring the intake manifold temp and when it sees it get too hot it retards ignition timing and reduces overall boost, to help control detonation that can occur.  In fact the ECU is very aggressive when the temps get hot, meaning when it hits somewhat normal 140F it’s pulling a few degrees of timing killing lots of horsepower.  Well not really killing horsepower, but keeping your engine in a safer state.  Our intercooler does such a good job at cooling the air off that you will NEVER see these high temps that will cause your ECU to retard ignition timing.  This is the biggest reason why the ALTA FMIC makes power on a stock tuned ECU car.  But if you are able to tune the ECU there is many other benefits as the ALTA FMIC will allow you to hit much higher boost targets and hit them safely.  On tuned ECU cars we see 20WHP gains all the time!

Below are some results we saw on a Stock JCW Stage1.  This means no aftermarket parts installed, but only an ECU retune.  We would see air temps climb up to 150-155F at redline while on the dyno with the stock intercooler.  After the run was over the temps would continue to climb up reaching 166F!  This happens because of the slow acting nature of the temp sensor.  With the ALTA intercooler installed, we would see peak temps hit 98F!


The ALTA FMIC cooled the charge temps 45F-55F cooler than the stock FMIC. Unlike our competion, we tested this on the same day on our dyno within 1 hour of one another.  These tests were done on a Stage 1 JCW (Stock car with an ECU tune) and what you can’t see is how repeatable these numbers are!



These are dyno numbers backing up the above temp graph.  The car is the same Stage 1 JCW, with nothing done but the ALTA Intercooler between runs.  The 10-20WHP and 10-12 Ft-lbs of torque are great gains!



Below are some results we saw on a Stage 2 JCW.  This means a turboback exhaust and ECU tune were done.  We would see air temps climb even higher to 160-170F with the stock intercooler.  The temps were higher because we were running more boost.  After the run was over the temps would continue to climb up reaching 185F!    This happens because of the slow acting nature of the temp sensor.  With the ALTA intercooler installed, we would see peak temps hit 101F!


Here is another test done on the same car as above but in Stage 2 form. Stage 2 is when a turboback exhaust is installed along with a proper ECU tune.  Nothing was done between the runs except changing the intercooler to an ALTA FMIC.



Any JCW would love to have power like this!  The ALTA FMIC is key to making consistent big power!  We see similar overall gains on R56′s in stage 2 form.  This is the dyno graph that goes along with the temp data above.


These are proven back to back runs done on a dyno where its consistent run to run. Others try selling you that their intercooler is tested back to back on the road, but really its done days and days apart with different ambient temps, different roads, and who knows how many other variables. Our tests are done with consistent flowing fans, providing constant airflow.  While these don’t provide quite the same air flow as you would see on the track, the numbers we show are repeatable over and over again, and on the street you will see even better results.

Below are a few more examples of gains you can expect.


This is what you can expect for wheel horsepower gains on an R56 with only a turboback exhaust installed and stock ECU tuning.



This is what you can expect for wheel horsepower gains on an R56 with only a turboback exhaust installed and stock ECU tuning.



The competition touts a 20F temp drop over the stock intercooler, when we see 50-60F temp drop with ours!   This is the biggest reason why our intercooler makes horsepower and to a level that far exceeds other R56 Intercoolers on the market.

We achieve these huge temp drops and HP levels by making the intercooler fill the front of you bumper opening completely. This translates into a surface area that is 2.9 times larger than the stock intercooler!   The internal volume of the ALTA Intercooler is much larger (2 times larger) than stock allowing the intercooler to cool better and flow even more air!   The competition sells theirs as being only 50% larger volume and ambient surface area.

Our “Equal” flow intercooler distributes the super heated charge across the entire face of the intercooler ensuring all of the charge gets cooled equally and completely.  Air will flow through the path of least resistance and on these stepped type cores, the fatter lower portion has much less pressure drop than the upper thinner part. So most of the air is flowing through the lower area, where its blocked partially by the bumper..  The thinner area is where the best cooling is going to happen but this is where the least amount of air is going to go.  This is where our intercooler shines and the whole thing is built equally making sure all the air is cooled the same!

While looks shouldn’t be the first reason to buy an ALTA intercooler our intercooler fills the whole grill and is centered in the mouth giving it the best chance to cool off the charged air.  You can feel proud to remove the lower grill and really show it off!  Our completion sacrifices functionality for installation reasons making the intercooler narrower like the stock intercooler. What most people don’t notice is that this also makes the intercooler offset to one side by about 3 inches.  This is done to save some installation time.

Uses all of Bumper Opening

Our intercooler is designed to be as big as possible and utilize as much of the ambient air coming through the bumper as possible. You can see our intercooler fills the whole mouth of the bumper.  With the grill installed you can see its still visible!





Installation of any intercooler requires the same basic steps, but the ALTA intercooler requires one additional step to install.  We require some removal of plastic which takes about 20 extra minutes to do for a DIY’er.  This is one of those things our competitors say is the biggest downfall to the ALTA.  If 20 minutes of time isn’t worth the proven HP and temp changes, and a symmetrical fitting intercooler, then don’t change your intercooler.



The ALTA R56 Front Mounted Intercooler goes hand and hand with other performance upgrades on your Mini Cooper S R56.  With the results we have seen over the years, I would argue all day that this is the single best part for your R56 or JCW.  With the above proof, i think you will see the ALTA intercooler is the best intercooler out there for your R56 and JCW!


Jul 012010

The term uppipe, where did this come from?  Definitely not from Subaru, but most likely from some crazy Subaru Enthusiast.  Where ever this term came from, I remember first seeing the term use on I-Club forums (now known as NASIOC).  This strange part people were calling an Uppipe is what drove me to start coming up with high performance parts for Subarus.


Over the years I have this term so much that I added it to my Microsoft Word Dictionaries.  The term was so well taken that I have never seen another “Uppipe” on another car, and to this day, this term is well recognized as a part you can buy for your Subaru.  Its easy to see how people came up with this name using a downpipe as an example.  This term came about because turbos are always mounted somewhat high on the engine and the exhaust pipe coming of it always goes “down”, hence the name downpipe.  Since the turbo on the Subaru is mounted high, and the exhaust ports are on the bottom of the engine, there is this wonderfully simple pipe that goes from the header “Up” to the turbo. Ding!  The Uppipe it is!

The whole Uppipe craze started in the US because our 2002 WRX was the first WRX ever to come with a Catalytic Converter mounted BEFORE the turbo!  Now it is illegal to remove a cat from a car, but the difference was so huge on these cars that people didn’t care and wanted to get rid of it!

The First PERRIN Uppipe

Before I ever thought about making aftermarket car parts I was just a normal (well maybe crazy) Subaru enthusiast that installed parts on friends car for fun, one of which was the Uppipe.  None of them really fit well, and they all had issues with the EGT sensor coming out over time.  These ill-fitting problematic parts is what drove me to do what I do today!


Original PERRIN logo

Thanks to my friend Mitch Morse for helping design this logo. It

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Uppipe #20-ish……

I say “ish” because i never numbered them, but its very close to #20.  This part was a returned from a customer who bought a rotated turbo kit and didn’t need this anymore.  Its amazing the condition of this part is so good, except the missing logo!

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The start of my Subaru Performance-ing was driven by the lack of quality parts available to us.  Starting with the Uppipe, and knowing the problems that existed, i felt i was in a good position to build something that no one else had.  I made the EGT bung properly so it wouldn’t come out, I accounted for the shrink that happened after welding the 321 Stainless Steel (so no flex joint was needed), made it the right size and provided super detailed instructions. This made the PERRIN Uppipe a flawless fitting part and also made it hard to keep up with demand!

What makes the PERRIN Uppipe the best……..

Dyno Proven

We were the first to provide hard back to back data that a PERRIN uppipe makes power on an STI.  This is very important to understand because it was once thought that that an aftermarket catless uppipe wouldn’t make any more power than the stock catless uppipe found on STI’s. We proved this to be wrong.  It was a surprise to us also, but during some heavy testing on our STI, we did a quickly swaped out the OEM catless uppipe with the PERRIN Catless Uppipe.  It made a repeatable 10WHP! WOW!  This was on a completely stock ECU tune!  We prove our parts on our dyno, not with a flow bench.


Proven 10WHP

This test was done on one of our STI’s runing in stage 3 form but with the stock ECU tuning.  Imagine if we had an ECU tune before and after! Again this proves the PERRIN uppipe works on all Subaru turbo cars!

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First and foremost is the material choice.  We have always used 321 Stainless Steel, which is one of the highest quality materials best suited for exhaust systems. Its ability to deal with extreme temps and vibrations make this perfect for this part.  Many companies use lesser 304SS and then a flex joint to deal with the vibrations and expanding and contracting only to find either the flex joint blows out, or a crack developes.


321 Stainless Steel…

This part was in service for roughly 6 years and its amazing how nice this part looks. This is one of the great properties of 321 SS, its resistance to corrosion!

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Tubing Size

From the beginning of time I would see these Uppipes where people would just make them as big as they can, or make them to match the size of the gaskets.  Which is completely is the wrong way to approach this.  The important thing is exhaust gas velocity, and keeping it the same or speeding it up slightly.  Since the first Uppipe we have made the ID of the pipe best fit the OEM Exhaust manifold and turbo inlet.  Its not a huge secret but the 1.75″ tubing we use is the best size to use for the Uppipe on cars that use stock headers and stock location turbos.  This matches the ID of the OEM exhaust manifold so the speed of the exhaust gases don’t slow down (going into a bigger tube) or speed up and get restricted (going into a smaller tube).

Port Size

Because we use the proper size tubing it also means we have proper sized ports. The OEM gasket is a very high quality gasket and its designed to sit back from the extreme temps of the exhaust.  When you over-port your flanges the OEM gasket is now exposed to the extreme temps and will burn out very quick.  You can see below an example of an oversized/overported Uppipe that has issues with both ends of the flanges sealing.   This customer tried new gaskets and even using RTV to seal it up!


Proper Sized Ports

In this example of a used PERRIN uppipe you can see the carbon ring left behind indicating no leak from the gasket.  This is what we commonly see on all PERRIN upippes no matter how long they were in use.

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Overported Flange

In this example of a brand X uppipe you can see the carbon has blow out past the gasket.  This is because of the fire ring on the gasket being too close to the extreme exhuast temps. In all these situations its just a matter of time before the gasket is blown out.

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No Flex joints

In years of research we have never found a flex joint manufacture that rates a flex joint to 1600F continuous at 40PSI.  This is why all Uppipes that use flex joints eventually give out! The problem is the flexible part of the flex joint consists of very thin layers of Stainless Steel.  These super thin “bellows” don’t hold up to temps that cause steel to glow red hot while being under the pressure you exhaust sees under heavy load. Eventually they fatigue and blow out.


Flex Gone Bad!

In this example of a brand X uppipe that had a flex joint blow out.  What is amazing is that you can see right through the outer cover of the flex joint because the hole is so big!  This part was in service for roughly 3 years before this happened.  After the part was removed, we also found a few cracks.

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Guys that use the OEM Uppipes in race conditions also find that they don’t hold up, because they too have a flex joint in them. You may not know this, because it’s buried under all those heat shields! The only reason why the stock part holds up for a reasonable amount of time is that there is a shield on the inside to help deflect heat away from the fragile bellows.


OEM has a flex joint!

In this example of a stock STI uppipe.  I cut off the sheild to show that a flex is installed on these also.  Under normal conditions these hold up ok, but start putting more boost and bigger turbos, and these start to blow out just like the aftermarket ones.

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Most companies use flex joints on their Uppipes to solve fitment problems. We solved this problem years ago by just making the part properly. On a part like ours that fits solidly between two solid points, it’s important that it fits perfect!  While this takes extra effort to ensure a proper fit, it something you can see others skimp on and just add a cheap flex joint that is not rated to do the job. This allows the part to fit even if the fabricator made it wrong.  What you can’t see is on the Aftermarket Uppipe we show above is the offset in the flex joint. This shows how it was not fitting good but the flex joint made it fit. BAD NEWS!


We started out with 3/8″ Laser cut 304SS flanges then quickly moved to ½ thick flanges.  This was done because of the flanges warping when welding. It happens no matter what, but bumping up the thickness to ½” and CNC machining them (not laser cutting which added heat) controls this problem to an absolute minimum.  A small feature to our parts is that the flange warps away from the mating surface which is GREAT for helping thing seal up!  So if you get a PERRIN Uppipe and you see the flange is slightly warped, don’t worry its not flattened out for a reason!

One more thing we do is face our flanges.  During the machining process a second step is taken to face-off or mill-off the main mathing surface. This removes the rough mill finish to ensure a perfect seal between your header and turbo. This is a time consuming step in the machining process but once again, is worth it to ensure your PERRIN Uppipe is perfect!


CNC Machined Flanges

Only 1/2″ thick 304SS flanges used here.  You will never see Chrome plated Mild Steel flanges on a PERRIN part. Tha is left for the imported brands.  Now, the back side of our flanges are counterbored to make the transition for the exhaust smoother!

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Counterbored Flanges

Now all the flanges are counterbored to create an even better smoother airflow path.  You can see how the tubes meets the flange in smooth fashion!

Also you can see the perfect flat “faced-off” mating surface.  Not something you see often.

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Look at a PERRIN Uppipe you will only see one weld on each flange.  We see many uppipes with welds on the inside and outsisde and like clockwork, they crack. This is because when you weld SS it shrinks.  Welding on one side then the other causes huge amounts of stress on that short little piece of tube between the welds.  Its just a matter of time before it causes a crack. Cracks are bad as this causes a leak in the exhaust loosing precious exhaus pressure, which means bye bye boost!


One Weld to Rule Them All

You will only find a perfect single weld on each end of our uppipe.  Two welds on each flange just means a crack in your uppipe is inevitable!

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No EGT Bung!

Since most owners we sell these to are STI or 06+ WRX owners this won’t matter at all. But all the 02-05 WRX owners (as well as some Legacy GT guys) will feel comfortable knowing their OEM EGT sensor is not installed on our part. This seems crazy to defeat a sensor on the car, but these older WRX’ are known for EGT sensors to fail.  When they fail the small metal probe flies into the turbo and destroys it! Then bye bye turbo and say hello to an expensive trip to the dealer.  After the first initial run of Uppipes we ditched the EGT sensor altogether.  Instead, a small resistor was put in place of the sensor to keep the ECU from throwing a CEL.  This saved many turbos from going bad as well as kept the sensor from potentially coming unscrewed.


Don’t let this happen!

On any modified 2002-05 WRX’s the OEM EGT sensor (located in the upipe) can break off and destroy the turbo!  Using a PERRIN uppipe protects the turbo from damage by removing the sensor all together. This irrelevant sensor is only there to tell the ECU the catalytic converter is too hot.  Since the PERRIN uppipe removes the cat on the 02-05 WRX, it no longer needs to use the sensor.


Using the feature “Mandrel Bent” is kind of a no-brainer.   In this day and age, if you don’t use a CNC Mandrel Bender to bend your pipes you are living in the dark ages!  But where we one-upped the competition is by making tube have 2 bends not just one which makes for a super tight restrictive bend.  The 2 bends made for a much smoother path from the header to the turbo.  We were the first to make the par this way and you can tell how others followed by looking at the Uppipe and how similar to ours.


CNC Mandrel Bent

That is all that needs to be said, CNC Mandrel bent on a Pines #2 machine.

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The PERRIN Uppipe Today

Do a search for Uppipe and you will see we are always mentioned a few times on the first page.  We feel pretty proud of this, but over the years we have seen many different brands pop up pushing us down on the list.  While we were one of the first Uppipes available in the US, the competition has risen on this simple, somewhat forgotten part.

I say forgotten because there hasn’t been a Subaru produced with a cat before the turbo since 2005.  Which means, the need for this part has lessened over the years.  A few years back we dynoed our Uppipe on an STI.  In this back to back test (the only ones to ever do this) we were very surprise to find 10WHP when swapping out the OEM catless Uppipe for a properly sized PERRIN Uppipe!  This dyno test is still our best selling tool today because it represents 90% of the customers we sell Uppipes to.

Now we have stepped it up one more time with new flanges.  The ½” thick, faced, 304SS flanges with counterbores on the back side, makes our uppipe better than its ever been and also the most powerful its ever been.  While these features add a bit of cost on our end (not yours) its worth it to us to keep our Uppipe the most sought after Uppipe on the market!  Maybe you too can add the word Uppipe to your Microsoft WORD Dictionary.


 Posted by on July 1, 2010 Part Design & Tech Tagged with: , , , ,
Dec 252009

This all-new R56 Turbo Inlet Hard Pipe replaces our all-silicone turbo inlet hose which was a staple of our R56 parts line up.  We have taken our old version and stepped it up a notch by making it out of combination of CNC’ed aluminum and mandrel bends to create and even bigger and better, not to mention nicer looking, R56 turbo inlet hose.  Choose between red wrinkle and black wrinkle finishes that match the new style R56 Cold Air Intakes.

Below are the dyno results seen on our R56 when we did nothing but switch out the turbo inlet hose!  The car started out with a turboback exhaust, Cold Air Intake, and FMIC (the blue run) and then we added the Turbo Inlet Hard Pipe (the green run).  The results of almost 10WHP and the addition of quicker turbo response, makes the Turbo Inlet Hard Pipe hose a great addition to your Mini!



Below is the same test done on a JCW. These cars come with an upgraded turbo inlet hose from the factory, so we wanted to see how the ALTA version compares to this. As you can see it does make more HP!




The heart of the new Turbo Inlet Hard Pipe is the CNC machine turbo inlet nozzle, which doubles as a turbo bellmouth, and a coupler to connect the inlet pipe to the turbo.  This allows us to use larger than normal tubing right up to the turbo inlet creating the largest possible Inside Diameter, which means more HP and better turbo response!


Starting immediately after the MAF sensor is large 2.75″ tubing that continues down to the just a few inches before the turbo where a smooth transition to 2.5″ tubing is made.  From there our CNC aluminum turbo nozzle is welded on, making a perfect transition from the 2.5″ tubing to the tiny turbo inlet.  You can see by the side by side comparison of the OEM  turbo inlet hose, how our hose is much bigger through out.

And below is the same comparison of the JCW turbo inlet hose. As you can see the OEM JCW hose bigger than the OEM MCS hose.


We started developing the new turbo inlet hard pipe due to supply issues issues we had with the all-silicone hose.  Besides being able to actually supply customers with parts, our other goal was to step it up a notch by making it even bigger and even more freer flowing than the old one.  We did this using a combination of 2.75″ and 2.5″ tubing, and the CNC’d aluminum nozzle.  Below you can see a cut away of the nozzle and tube mating up to it.  What is hard to see is that there is a small lip where the 2.5″ tubing meets  the air horn part of the nozzle. This helps the transition as well as helps get rid of the square corner that would normally be left behind.  From there a traditional style air horn (something found on race cars) provides a smooth transition for the air directly to the turbo inlet.  From there you can see the 2 grooves cut to hold the o-rings which are used to seal this to the turbo inlet.

With all these new features and changes we feel we have out done our selves in the Mini world once again!


 Posted by on December 25, 2009 Dyno Test & Tune, First Look, MINI Only Tagged with: , , , , , ,